|
The Access Fund: "Your
Climbing Future" IN THIS ISSUE: 1. Access Fund Awards 2. Access Fund Meeting – Bishop, California 3. Climbing News from North Carolina 4. Holding On Editorial 5. Purchase Holiday Gifts That Support The Access Fund And The World Around You. 6. Access Fund Memberships and Merchandise for the Holidays 7. Featured Corporate Partner -- PETZL 8. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP) 9. Kickin Access Friction Addiction 10. Vertical Times is Also Online ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1. Access Fund Awards for 2003 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ At the October Access Fund board meeting, the following awards were given to volunteers who have devoted countless hours to preserving climbing access in America. Whether digging trails, attending meetings or rallying support, they were helping to keep climbing areas open and conserve the climbing environment during the past year. The Access Fund extends its highest praise to the following recipients: Sharp End Award — For leadership and activism in preserving climbing access and the climbing environment. Individual: — Jeff Sargeant (Connecticut) for his support of stewardship and his service on the board of the Ragged Mountain Foundation. Businesses: • Petzl (Utah) for supporting outreach and educational programs during the “Roc Trip” events, backing the Castleton Tower initiative land acquisition, working on Utah Wilderness issues, and its financial support of the Access Fund brochure series. • REI (Washington) for financial, volunteer and management support of Adopt-A-Crag and the Access Fund Grassroots Program. Also for assisting national policy initiatives such as lobbying work in Washington D.C., climbing management plan development and for co-signing a letter to the U.S. Forest Service regarding fixed anchors. Land Manager of the Year: Given to a professional resource manager who has demonstrated a progressive approach to public land management and has been committed to preserving climbing opportunities. — Gary Hartley, (West Virginia) Chief Ranger at the New River Gorge for his outreach and cooperative negotiations in creating a balanced Climbing Management Plan. Regional Coordinator of the Year: For leadership and activism in preserving climbing access and the climbing environment and specifically for volunteer work as an Access Fund representative — Frank Harvey (Tennessee). The Bebie Leadership Award: Presented to America’s outstanding activists for the cause of preserving climbing access and the climbing environment. — Kurt Smith and Elaina Arenz Smith (“The Road”). Menocal Lifetime Achievement Award: Periodically given to individuals who have demonstrated remarkable commitment to the cause of preserving climbing access and the climbing environment and contributed substantially to the Access Fund over many years. Paul Minault (California) for his 14+ years of service to the climbing community as a great leader and strong advocate for climbers. Marion Hutchison (Okalahoma) for his 12+ years of service to the climbing community as a great leader and strong advocate for climbers. Board Service Award: To exiting members of the Access Fund Board of Directors for their distinguished service — Andy Fitz (1997-2003), Chris McNamara (2000-2003) and Shannon Stuart-Smith (2000-2003). Michael Kennedy Award: For outstanding leadership and commitment to our mission as Access Fund Board Member — Andy Fitz (Washington) for work on the State of Washington Recreation Use Statue, stewardship at Frenchman's Coulee and Little Si and his commitment of time, expertise and leadership. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 2. Access Fund Meeting – Bishop, California (Edited report courtesy of Mick Ryan, rockfax@yahoo.com) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Over 50 climbers attended an open meeting at the Mountain Light gallery last Thursday evening. This meeting was led by Shawn Tierney and Deanne Buck of the Boulder, Colorado climbers advocacy group, the Access Fund. This meeting was part of an on-going commitment from the Access Fund who has over the last five years contributed over $24,000 plus many man-hours to help the Bishop BLM help with climber management, mainly on the Volcanic Tableland. At the meeting such emotive issues as dogs at climbing areas and voluntary climbing bans because of concern over birds of prey were discussed at length. Bill Dunkelberger, the Field Manager of the Bishop BLM Office was present and found it illuminating to hear climbers discuss their impact issues and the solutions to them with so much passion. One highlight of the meeting was the appointment of Bob Harrington as the Regional Access Fund Representative for the Eastern Sierra climbing areas. Harrington is a longtime Bishop local climber and is very well respected by climbing community. His acceptance of this position was greeted with a long round of applause. This is a voluntary and unpaid position that represents climbers' interests on both public and private lands. In addition, Regional Coordinators can provide expertise on a wealth of related subjects from organizing conservation or trail-building projects to the acquisition of a threatened climbing area. At the same meeting, Zeke Federman, owner and director of the Sierra Rock Climbing School announced the formation of a non-profit organization, christened " the Sierra Nevada Institute". Federman describes the purpose of this new collective as being involved in " Eastern Sierra stewardship, conservation, service projects and outdoor recreation advocacy." and hopes to run a whole host of clinics and projects promoting conservation of the outdoors. The inaugural meeting of the Sierra Nevada Institute will be on Monday December 8 at Mountain Light Gallery and each month after that at the same location. All interested parties are welcomed. Local land managers and private landowners also hold regular meetings to discuss climber issues. The Interagency Bouldering Group consisting of representatives from the BLM, the Forest Service, DWP, the Piute Tribe and Inyo County meet regularly to identify agency issues and opportunities to integrate resource capabilities to improve local bouldering field management. So far local climbers have not been invited but this has now changed and all interested climbers are very much welcomed. This groups next meeting is in the USFS/BLM Conference Room at 351 Pacu Lane off West Line Street on Monday December 15th from 9.00 - 11.30am. Related to this is the US Forestry Service plans to locate a toilet and parking area on the west end of the Peabody Boulders in the Buttermilks. The USFS is preparing an Environmental Assessment (EA) for these projects and there is a public comment period through November. Julie Molzahn, South Zone Recreation Officer is overseeing the EA and you can contact here at 760-873-2462 or jmolzahn@fs.fed.us. Further south the US Forest Service is preparing an EA for the existing toilets on Mt.Whitney. They are looking at several options to deal more effectively with the human waste and sanitation problems on this trail, one of the most popular in the USA. Contact Mary Beth Hennessy at 760-873-2448 or mhennessy@fs.fed.us who will welcome your comments and provide answers to any questions you may have. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 3. Climbing News from North Carolina Submitted by: Aram Attarian, RC, North Carolina ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ASHBORO BOULDERS UPDATE Access to this unique central North Carolina bouldering area has been under dispute ever since the neighboring property owner claimed that the road leading to the bouldering area is on their property and does not want climbers using it any longer, Negotiations have been on-going for the past two years trying to resolve the road ownership issue. Mike Dean a local climber and access advocate reports that the landowner hopes to reach an agreement with his neighbor that will move the access road further away from their home and bypass the existing gate. The re-routed road will be for climbers’ use with no restrictions on what day of the week it can be used. There is still the chance that the neighbors could turn down this option. This could lead to fighting it out in court, which neither party wants. The landowner is pro-climbing and has asked everyone to be patient with the process of getting the road issue worked out. He is going through great expense, in finances and time for the climbing community and himself. He has also been prohibited from using the road, since leasing the land to the Carolina Climbers’ Coalition (CCC). He was offered the use of the road if he would keep the climbers out, which he declined. He has assured climbers that he will re-initiate the lease as soon as the area is re-opened. Climbers are reminded that the CCC NO LONGER has a lease to the land, so if you're out there, you're trespassing. New updates will be posted as Mike receives more information (carolinaclimbers.org). THIRD ANNUAL BLOWING ROCK BOULDERS CLEAN UP The Boone Climbers Coalition and NC Bouldering held a cleanup of the parking area at the Blowing Rock Boulders. Twelve climbers showed up and collected a dozen bags of trash and other assorted items. Trash bags and gloves were donated by the North Carolina Department of Transportation. Later in the evening, a Kicking Access Party highlighting Friction Addiction, a film by Kurt Smith was hosted by Footsloggers (Boone, NC), the BCC and North Carolina Bouldering (www.NCBouldering.com). The party got underway with a short meeting of the BCC to discuss the impending Climbing Management plan for the Blue Ridge Parkway. PISGAH CLIMBERS COALITION In a recent meeting, members of the Pisgah Climbers Coalition discussed plans for year 2004 that includes staging area restoration projects at the Nose and South Face areas of Looking Glass Rock. Additional parking for 6 vehicles at the New North Face Trail Head, the possibility of a small North Face info kiosk and the feasibility of an orientation day or evening for all climbing trip leaders were also discussed. Visit: www.pisgahclimbers.com/ for more information on the Pisgah Climbers Coalition. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 4. Holding On (Editorial submitted by Bennett Barthelemy) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ To contend with gravity and climb the impossible is one thing…to pro-actively contend with access issues before they reach critical mass seems to require a strength and stamina altogether mythical. For the adventurous, climbing in Northern California offers some of the most rugged and wild terrain left anywhere in the US. But because of its dense tangle of ridges, rivers, and property boundaries, it poses some challenging access concerns. Ferreting out and developing new areas, climbers have inadvertently stumbled across more than one dope patch. Depending upon the cultivator of the patch it could be left solely to the sun and winds, or it could be protected with any assortment of military style accoutrements. Getting to the hidden citadels is another factor. Up to 3 hours passing logging trucks on roads often narrowing to one lane and sliding between the folds of the craziest jumble of drainages and steep river gorges provides an ample dose of pre-cliff adrenaline. Topo maps are often an intersecting mess of Forest Service, private logging, Park Service, Wilderness, individuals, and reservation lands. Contacting the right owner(s) to discuss access concerns can be daunting and historically has been viewed often as a kind of Pandora’s Box of trial and tribulation—with an area so obscure and distant, why not keep it quiet? For its size, Northern California is home to about as many Native American tribes as you could find anywhere in the US. Where reservation land stops and Park Service and Forest Service begins, there is often a bleed-over of interest by the Natives as the ownership and use of the land is still hotly contested. Many of the areas, regardless of lines on a map, are still used ceremonially for religious purposes as well as for fishing or hunting by the dozens of Native tribes in the region. “Climbing wasn’t even on the radar until I got here” mused Chief Ranger and climber Scott Wanek of Redwood National Park. Wanek has been at the Park for just two years and climbing has carried on there for more than a decade. Sea cliffs bolted and boulders sent scores of times, all without much notice. Lost Rocks has now jumped into the international consciousness with Chris Sharma’s Rampage video—who knew that word would leak out and this sleepy beach could have such an impact on the climbing psyche? Who knew that such a paradise might smother beneath the demands of bureaucracy and the overlooked concerns of the local Yurok tribe? What happens now with the developed world-class limestone crags that are “way out there” beyond the pale? Out in Hayfork, Natural Bridge lies waiting for climbers but is absent of the click of carabiners against its steel bolts. The Nor-Rel-Muk Nation is actively seeking a means to have more effect over the care and use of the area—pulling it from the under-funded, understaffed clutches of the Forest Service while asking climbers for their help in respecting the area. It is an area that holds the distinction as a massacre site with more than 150 unmarked graves of their people. Many Northern California climbers signed a petition stating that they would voluntarily not climb there. Again we are left with questions. What if climbers had been more pro-active at Natural Bridge and Lost Rocks? What kind of message does clandestine bolting send out regarding other now-developed areas with looming access issues? Yes, it is the climbers right to climb on Federal lands but there is often more at issue than a boundary line and a policy statement. We need to ask ourselves, individually and as a climbing community—“Are there certain areas that should not be climbed?” Respect comes in many forms—pro-active dialogue and a sincere effort to expose future potential issues will go miles at preserving what we climb and may still develop. Yes, if we own up to our climbing practices and really listen to others needs, we may have to let go of some areas—but we can also hold on to many others. We need to ask ourselves what we can learn from the Cave Rock Closure. The goals should be to secure access through conscientious action—letting folks know climbers care through dialogues, organized clean-ups, involvement in policy issues, and respecting closures before access becomes a boxing match. Dominion and the assertion of it, will only take climbers so far and areas will keep getting blacklisted for climbers. We will shoot ourselves in the foot if we expect access will be sustained by being secretive and low profile. Gyms just aren’t that appealing. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 5. Purchase Holiday Gifts That Support The Access Fund And The World Around You. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Purchase holiday gifts that support the Access Fund and the world around you. This holiday season give a gift that supports the Access Fund as well as the environment. The Access Fund has developed partnerships with two incredible coffee companies, Kind Coffee of Estes Park, CO and Higher Ground Roasters of Leeds, AL. Kind Coffee (www.kindcoffee.com) and Higher Ground (www.highergroundroasters.com) roast and sell Fair Trade, 100% organic, shade grown coffee. Organic coffees use no chemicals or pesticides in the growing or processing of the product. Fair trade ensures that the growers and producers of the coffee are paid fairly. Shade grown coffees are grown in natural settings without clear cutting or environmental damage. Owned and managed by climbers, both companies see the importance of keeping climbing access available while conserving the climbing environment. To showcase their commitment, a percentage of proceeds of a special Access Fund blend of coffee from each company will go back to the Access Fund. These dollars will support grassroots programs that keep you climbing and protect the world in which we live. To order “CRANK”, go to the Kind Coffee Site at: http://www.kindcoffee.com/index.php?sku=2695-2149&cat=1038 To order “The Access Fund Blend” visit Higher Ground Roasters at www.highergroundroasters.com/coffee/accessfundblend.html. Higher Ground also offers a subscription service where you can select to receive the Access Fund blend each month. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 6. Access Fund Memberships and Merchandise for the Holidays ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Haven't come up with a gift for your climbing partner yet? Running out of ideas for those climbing buddies who have more gear than they know what to do with? How about giving the gift of an Access Fund membership? Call 303-545-6772 x107 to donate a membership. Or if you are looking for the perfect stocking stuffer, the Access Fund O'Piner is an essential tool that every climber should have. Why? 1) It opens tasty bottled beverages. 2) It doubles as a hook for that last dicey A4 placement. 3) It sports our logo etched into a cool replica piton. NEW: Access Fund women's shirt -- tapered for feminine fit. High quality preshrunk 100% cotton Silver brand shirts designed for a snug fit and ideal for steep sport climbs, bold runouts, tendon-tweaking boulder problems or just hanging out. Canary yellow with Access Fund logo on front and mandala art on back. Available while supplies last. (Sizes S-XL) $20. Crazy Creek Chairs Super Blowout! While they last, we are selling these chairs for $15 (50% off retail!!!). All merchandise can be purchased at https://www.accessfund.org/secure/gear.pl ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 7. Featured Corporate Partner -- PETZL ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Petzl is proud of our 13-year relationship with the Access Fund. The importance of supporting THE national climber advocacy group cannot be understated. The AF has a proven track record that we are reminded of every time we climb in areas like Indian Creek, the New River Gorge, Castle Rocks State Park, and the Red River Gorge. --John Evans, Petzl Marketing Director ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 8. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Climbers who join the Access Fund or renew their membership in 2003 at the minimum level of $50 will reap the following benefits: MIP Levels and Benefits: $50 - Access Fund T-shirt $100 - T-shirt & 1yr subscription to Outside Magazine $250 - T-shirt & Black Diamond Moonlight headlamp with AF logo $500 - T-shirt & North Face Redpoint jacket with AF logo $1000+ - T-shirt & 60m Maxim "Dry" rope Join/renew your Access Fund membership or find out more about the MIP at https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 9. Kickin Access Friction Addiction ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Kurt and Elaina are again on the road for the Kickin Access Tour. The events feature "Friction Addiction" by Kurt Smith, dyno and pull-up comps, live music by DJ Highball, gear auctions, and raffles. Please come out, join the party and support the Access Fund! Upcoming Friction Addiction Events: 12/6 HP 40 @ HP 40 Triple Crown Finals 12/12 Tampa, FL @ Vertical Ventures 813-884-7625 12/16 Orlando, FL @ Aiguille 407-332-1430 12/18 Lafayette, LA @ Rokhaus 337-981-8116 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 10. Vertical Times is Also Online ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Vertical Times, Access Fund's bimonthly publication, is our climbing community's most comprehensive periodical for climbing access issues. It covers current policy topics, area reports, events, action alerts, grants and more. Vertical Times is available to Fund members and non-members (if you are not a member, please join). By offering Vertical Times electronically, Access Fund can decrease printing and mailing costs and increase allocations to help protect Your Climbing Future. To join this effort and discontinue receiving printed issues of Vertical Times, please email your name and address to memberservices@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject. We'll keep you in the know about vital climbing issues--and save valuable resources. Presently, 791 members have requested not to receive their print copy of Vertical Times -- a savings to the Access Fund of nearly $5000 per year to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. To view current and back issues of Vertical Times, please visit http://www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html. AF E-NEWS POLICIES: 1. The Access Fund office in Boulder, CO is the only source of outgoing messages to the lists. 2. The AF will not sell or give away email addresses of AF E-News subscribers. 3. AF E-News is an announcement-only e-mail list; therefore, you cannot reply to any of the list members. 4. All e-mail addresses will remain confidential with every mail sent. TOP OF PAGE
|