E-News 76

February 2007

 

 

THE BETA

 

NATIONAL NEWS

Improve the Future of Climbing at Hueco Tanks

Access Fund National Climbing Management Summit

AREA UPDATES

Legislators Propose Electronic Signaling Devices for Mountaineers, OR

Chimney Rock purchased by Hickory Nut Gorge State Park, NC

Arches National Park Update, UT

Madrone Wall Update, OR

AF NEWS

Refer-a-Friend

EVENTS

Events Calendar

MEMBER BENEFITS

Men's T-shirts

Women's T-shirts

Pass It On!

AF Extras

Vertical Times 74 The February Issue is Now Online!

Combined Federal Campaign

 

 

NATIONAL NEWS

 

Improve the Future of Climbing at Hueco Tanks

Act Now!

 

Texas State Parks are in a vulnerable position resulting from inadequate and declining state funding over the last decade. These parks include Hueco Tanks, Enchanted Rock and McKinney Falls, all of which contain climbing or bouldering. As a result of this funding decline, coupled with ever-increasing costs, the state parksÕ current budget shortfall has lead to lay-offs, partial closings and curtailment of park programs, especially for youth. When the budget for TexasÕ climbing parks suffers your climbing future is at risk.

 

Your help is needed to secure adequate funding for climbing parks in Texas.

 

There are currently two bills up for approval this session in the Texas Legislature, HB 6 and SB 252, which if passed would remove a cap on the allocation of sporting goods taxes towards TexasÕ state and local parks (also including ReimerÕs Ranch). These bills could result in a much-needed increase in funding to Texas State Parks and enable the restoration of park programs, hiring of additional staff, and new and improved park facilities that would benefit climbers and other recreational users. In short, the approval of HB 6 and SB 252 could result in a long-term investment in TexasÕ climbing parks.

 

Also in the works is a proposal by Texas state legislators and agency commissioners to transfer more than 20 state park properties in Texas from the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD) over to the Texas Historical Commission (THC). THC insists that Hueco Tanks is no longer targeted for transfer though it was initially. Hueco is certainly a desirable asset as the premiere archaeological resource in the state and we must assure that it stays off the THCÕs list for transfer. With THCÕs mission centered on the preservation of archeological and cultural landmarks in Texas, climbing access at Hueco could change under THC management.

 

The Access Fund is taking action to support the approval of HB 6 and SB 252 and oppose the transfer of state parks, including Hueco Tanks, from TPWD to THC. 

 

The Access Fund is taking the following actions:

 

  1. An Austin-based lobbying campaign that aligns Texas climbers with other interest groups dedicated to preserving the financial security of Texas state parks and Hueco in particular. This work will also involve direct lobbying to the Texas governorÕs office, and talking with numerous relevant Texas legislators and public land agency officials.

 

  1. Working with Hueco locals and mobilizing a local grassroots organization targeting El Paso-area climbers, other Texas constituents, and out-of-state climbers that frequent Hueco who all share an interest in preserving recreational access at Hueco. This effort includes immediate letter writing to Austin-based policy makers and rallying Hueco climbers at the 2007 Rock Rodeo.

 

Now is the time to invest in the future of climbing at Hueco Tanks. If you are a Texas state resident contact your state legislator and urge them to:

(1) improve funding for state and local parks

(2) oppose the transfer of recreation-based parks to the Texas Historical Commission.

 

Visit http://accessfund.org/pdf/Hueco_Talking_Points_2_9_07.pdf to read talking points and find information on who your state representative is in Texas.

 

If you are a non-Texan who has visited and enjoy the climbing opportunities at Hueco Tanks, check the next ENEWS (sign up here if you donÕt already receive it) to fill out an economic impact survey and show your local influence.

 

If you want to ensure future climbing and bouldering access to Hueco Tanks and other climbing parks in Texas, now is the time to speak up.

 

Stay tuned to the Access Fund ENEWS for updates to this issue. 

 

For more information about Hueco visit:

http://accessfund.org/pubs/en/e-news22.html and http://www.huecorockranch.com

Contact the Access Fund for more information:  jason@accessfund.org

 

 

Access Fund National Climbing Management Summit

On March 10 and 11 the Access Fund will host a National Climbing Management Summit in Golden, CO. This conference will provide a forum for land managers from across the country to discuss and share specific Òclimbing management practices that work.Ó

 

Increasingly, public land agencies implement varying climbing management policies despite similar or identical mandates and management obligations. There exists a need for better communication and understanding between public land managers and the climbing community to avoid management problems, inconsistent regulatory interpretations and enforcement, and to facilitate Òbuy-inÓ by climbers concerning land manger obligations, needs and programs.

 

A better understanding of effective climbing management policies and improved communication among land managers and the climbing community will work to keep us all climbing.

 

If you are a land manager and are interested in attending, please email Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith at jason@accessfund.org.

 

 

 

AREA UPDATES

 

Legislators Propose Electronic Signaling Devices for Mountaineers, OR

Following hi-drama rescue efforts this winter on OregonÕs Mt. Hood, electronic signaling devices (ESDs) have been touted by the media as key to saving lives

 

Responding to these recent events, the Oregon governor recently issued an executive order (http://governor.oregon.gov/Gov/docs/executive_orders/eo0701.pdf) establishing a Search and Rescue Task Force to review Oregon laws, rules and policies pertaining to search and rescue operations and to recommend contemporary best practices for search and rescue operations. Now, a new bill in the Oregon state legislature (HB 2509) would require the use of ESDs by any individual or group engaging in mountain climbing above timberline during a five-month period in the winter. The proposed law would also require commercial guides, under certain conditions, to carry an altimeter, contour map and a compass. For more details see www.leg.state.or.us/07reg/measures/hb2500.dir/hb2509.intro.html.

 

Public criticism of HB 2509 was swift. Many point out that most ESDs will not serve as effective rescue tools and could cause the inexperienced to rely on them inappropriately (for example, use these one-way devices as avalanche beacons). Moreover, people carrying cell phones and ESDs may take more risk than normal, thinking that they can easily summon help. Alternatively, mountaineers who do not carry an ESD, yet know of the new legal requirement, may hesitate to ask for help for fear of penalty, thus further endangering themselves and rescuers. In short, the unintended but very real consequence of this proposed law will be more risks by mountaineers and lost time by rescuers.

 

Opponents of this bill also complain that the requirements to carry additional equipment are applied in a discriminatory fashion to mountaineers only (it doesnÕt apply to hikers, skiers, or, snowmobilers) despite surveys of rescue efforts that show that these other recreational user groups generate more search and rescue hours. Moreover, it is generally easier to locate people above tree line and much more difficult to locate people in the forest where ESDs devices would not be required under the proposed law.

.

The Access Fund believes that outdoor enthusiasts should take responsibility for their own safety and responsibly use appropriate rescue equipment. However, the state should not require the use of ESDs as these devices can create a false sense of security that rescue is available. Also, penalties for failing to carry an ESD may create a disincentive to contacting rescuers, thus further endangering everyone involved. To comment on HB 2509 (whether you live in Oregon or not) email the Oregon legislature at: www.leg.state.or.us.  For more information contact Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith at jason@accessfund.org.

 

 

Chimney Rock purchased by Hickory Nut Gorge State Park, NC

By Brad McLeod, Access Fund Board Member

 

On January 30, 2007, The State of North Carolina announced plans to officially buy Chimney Rock (996 acre parcel) for $24 million. Sean Cobourn, past President of the Carolina Climbers Coalition stated "The CCC has been lobbying for this and today the dream came true. CRP will now be included in the new Hickory Nut Gorge State Park. Don't pull out your rack yet, but keep your fingers crossed that we can negotiate access to this gem."

 

The purchase of the Chimney Rock parcel adds to the expanding 2,264 acres of Hickory Nut Gorge State Park which includes Rumbling Bald known for its fantastic crack climbing and a hillside strewn with hundreds of boulders.

 

The Carolina Climbers Coalition has worked hard over the past years to work out the details of purchasing the Rumbling Bald tract from private landowners and transferring this land to the newly formed State Park.

 

Sean Barb, current President of the CCC explained "This is obviously a really, really big deal for more than just the climbing community. Fortunately for climbers, North Carolina State Parks are skilled at balancing the provision of recreation with natural resource protection. Lets all look forward to working within the State Park's planning processes which will ensure that future generations will have a wonderful park to enjoy."

 

Chimney Rock sits on the opposite side of the rugged gorge overlooking Lake Lure and is punctuated by a 400 ft. waterfall and stunning 300 ft. chimney.

 

 

 

Arches National Park Update, UT

By Sam Lightner Jr., Access Fund Board Member,  Arches Task Force Coordinator, ASCA South East Utah Representative

 

In May of 2006 the National Park Service (NPS) placed a moratorium on new fixed anchors in Arches National Park. This moratorium bans pitons (or bolts) on existing aid routes, effectively making many of the established routes in Arches closed to future ascents.

 

Similarly, any new climbs requiring descent anchors are also now banned. Both Arches and Canyonlands (where fixed anchors are also now currently prohibited) contain a very large number of desert towers and the potential countless new single pitch routes and these new fixed anchor restrictions greatly limited climbing opportunities. However, the NPS plans to start a new climbing management plan governing both Arches and Canyonlands later this year which may address some of the current climbing restrictions.

 

After the May 2006 Arches fixed anchor ban the Access Fund immediately stepped in to try and alleviate the situation by improving relations with the South East Utah Group of the NPS. Through meetings with park officials it became clear that the new climbing restrictions in Arches resulted from public outcry about the controversial climb of Delicate Arch last May which forced land managers to make a rule that was not good for climbers.

 

A group of local Moab climbers, working with the Access Fund and the American Safe Climbing Association, has begun to work with the NPS to try and give climbers a better image by cleaning up anchors and removing old webbing from towers and other visible routes within Arches.

 

Park administrators have so far been receptive and the improving relationship will hopefully help the Access Fund negotiate an end to the anchor moratorium and eventually produce a new climbing policy that accommodates climbers. In the meantime, it is important that climbers not add anchors to existing or new routes, forgo the use of chalk, and follow trails, washes, and slick rock when approaching climbs.

 

For more information contact Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith at jason@accessfund.org.

 

 

Madrone Wall Update, OR

By Keith K. Daellenbach, Madrone Wall Preservation Committee

 

The Parks Advisory Board (PAB) reviewed Clackamas County Parks Department staff recommendations for the next five years parkÕs budget on 23 January. Thirty-five projects were recommended by County Parks staff for funding from an overall budget of $6.437 million. Included in the staff recommendation were two Madrone Wall allocations.

 

A $40K ÒHardscrabble Master PlanÓ allocation was recommended for FY2007-2008. The master plan would plan for park activities and uses, capital expenses, traffic studies, on-site parking needs/design, and state highway approach.  The master plan should be completed in nine to twelve months after the fiscal year starts on July 1, 2007. 

 

A second recommended allocation by County Parks was for ÒMadrone Park ImprovementsÓ to occur four years later in FY2011-2012 (ÒYear 5Ó) for $300K.  Creating required on-site parking is identified as the single largest capital expense; other capital expenditures include a porta-potty, signage, and trail materials. Three separate estimates acquired by the MWPC last fall show the cost to grade and finish a parking lot for 50 cars will cost a maximum of $40K for gravel and $70K for asphalt. While these estimates do not include surveying, permitting, or site preparation, they do indicate that park improvements may be significantly less than what this $300K capital allocation allows for. 

 

The MWPC has lined-up several professionals, including cartographers and traffic engineers, willing to donate pro bono time to assist the planning process further reducing County costs. It is critical that the County follow through with their goal to make this a priority by establishing funding for capital improvements in years immediately following the FY2007-2008 park master planning process. This logic is applied to other County projects and the Madrone Wall should not be an exception. The master plan should not languish four years before something concrete is accomplished. 

 

The next PAB meeting on February 20th at 7:00 p.m. will be critical. This meeting will further refine the ParkÕs budget and finalize recommendations for consideration by the Commissioners. Reallocation decisions at the January PAB meeting will provide the opportunity to move up Year 5 Madrone Wall capital funding to FY 2008-2009, which is warranted. 

 

Take Action:

While it is up to the PAB Chair to take comments from visitors, if you would like to provide input, we encourage you to attend this critical planning meeting. t will be held on Tuesday the 20th in Room 436 of the CountyÕs Sunnybrook Service Center (9101 S.E. Sunnybrook Blvd., Clackamas). We also encourage you to contact the Commissioners directly (www.co.clackamas.or.us/bcc/) and register your support for the timely creation of a County park in a park-barren area with massive anticipated population growth in Damascus. The Board of County Commissioners review of PAB budget recommendations and setting FY 2007-2008 budget.

 

 

 

AF NEWS

 

Refer-a-Friend

ItÕs Easy: Know a climber whoÕs not a member? Get them to join and receive free stuff. The more people you get to join, the more free stuff you get!

 

Every time your name is entered as a referrer, you are entered into a contest to win a rope.

 

PLUS

á      REFER TWO FRIENDS and receive a Nalgene Flask.

á      REFER FOUR FRIENDS and receive a Nalgene Flask and a dri-release wool T-shirt from Outdoor Research.

á      REFER SIX FRIENDS and receive a Nalgene Flask, a dri-release wool T-shirt from Outdoor Research, and a North Face merino wool beanie cap.

 

PLUS

The top referrer will receive a bonus gift package worth over $150.

 

REFER your friends by sending them to this NEW link:

http://www.accessfund.org/AFfriend

 

á      If they become a member, they are also entered into a contest to win a free rope.

á      They must enter your name in the ÒReferred byÓ box on the join form in order for their membership to count towards your total tally.

á      Awards will be sent on a quarterly basis as your referrals accumulate.

á      Program will reset January 1, 2008.

á      The Access Fund reserves the right to substitute any gift based on availability.

 

 

EVENTS

**A big thanks to these recent Access Fund Fundraisers that went the extra mile bringing in tremendous money and members helping to keep your climbing areas open and conserve your climbing environment!

 

Michigan Ice Fest

A huge thanks to the gang at Down Wind Sports for putting on yet another outstanding Michigan Ice Festival. Bill always puts on an amazing event and each year around 50 members join or renew their AF memberships at the event and this year was no exception. It was exceptional actually. Thanks for another great event!

 

Ragged Mountain Foundation Winter Party

Getting the word out and bringing in the AF members! Thanks Jeff for including the AF.

 

 

Events Calendar

Go to http://accessfund.org/events/events.php for a full list of events across the country.

 

02/16—02/19 Cody, WY. 9th Annual Water Fall Ice Festival

www.southforkice.com/

 

02/24—02/24 The Spot Bouldering Gym, Boulder, CO. ABS Season Finals

www.thespotgym.com

 

03/23—03/25 Red Rocks, Las Vegas, NV. Red Rock Rendezvous presented by Mountain Gear!

http://www.mountaingear.com/rr07/

 

03/24—03/24 Boulders Climbing Gym, Madison, WI. Boulders Brawl, 6PM
www.wisconsinoutdooraccess.org

 

 

MEMBER BENEFITS

Get member only discounts on all the new stuff in the Access Fund MemberSHOP! www.accessfund.org/membershop.

 

 You must be a current member to receive benefits and have your member ID# to login. If youÕre a current member and donÕt know your member ID#, contact kerry@accessfund.org. If you recently joined, please allow 6-8 business days for your ID# to be assigned and uploaded to our secure server.

 

Men's T-shirts

100% Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Those old T-shirts you've been wearing have more perforations than Swiss cheese at City of Rocks. By purchasing our T, you can rebel against corporate dress codes and battle for climbers' rights at the same time. Artwork by Mike Tea. Sizes S, M, L, XL. $20 non members/$18 member price NOW IN STOCK!

 

Women's T-shirts

100% Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Designed for a comfortable fit and ideal for steep sport climbs, bold runouts or just hanging out. Artwork by Mike Tea. Sizes S, M, L. $20 non members/$18 member price NOW IN STOCK!

 

Pass It On!

www.accessfund.org/membershop

 

Higher Ground Coffee Access Fund Blend Ten Percent of proceeds fund preservation and maintenance of our climbing areas.

 

Did you know that Access Fund members receive free shipping on web orders from Mountain Gear? You must access the Mountain Gear site through the AF MemberSHOP after you login.

 

Buy a CLIF Bar Cool Tag Renewable wind energy credit keeps about 300 lbs of CO2 out of the air and helps the Rosebud Sioux Tribe build a wind farm in South Dakota

 

Magazine discounts from Alpinist, Climbing, Rock & Ice, and Urban Climber

 

 

AF Extras

Cruise to the AF website and play ASANA PackWorks' video game Gunther's Big Day www.accessfund.com/extras/game.php  Click through to ASANA's site to purchase the full version. $10 from each purchase made through this link will be donated to the AF. Go Gunther! Thanks ASANA!

 

Access Fund Ambassador Chris Sharma sending a first ascent in the boulderProject promo spot at www.accessfund.org/extras/promo.php

 

AF Ambassador Timmy OÕNeil Òtakes care of businessÓ in Indian Creek http://www.accessfund.org/extras/tic.php

 

 

Vertical Times 74 The February Issue is Now Online!

Please check out the February Issue of the Vertical Times at

www.accessfund.org/news/vt.php

 

 

Combined Federal Campaign

Are you a federal employee? Did you know you can donate to The Access Fund through the federal government's Combined Federal Campaign (CFC)?

 

Federal employees, including federal civilians, military personnel, and U.S. Postal Service workers can donate to AF through the federal government's Combined Federal Campaign (CFC). The CFC is a charitable fundraising program where you give to the Access Fund through automatic payroll deductions.

 

If you are a federal employee, please look for the Access Fund (agency # 2361) in the official CFC listing of eligible donors. You can also make your contribution on-line by going to: www.conservenow.org, click on Search for a Charity, type in Access Fund and make your contribution there.

 

If you have additional questions on these programs please contact Whitney Self at: whitney@accessfund.org.

 

For other ways to give:

http://www.accessfund.org/support