E-News 76
February 2007
THE BETA
Improve the Future of Climbing at Hueco Tanks
Access Fund National Climbing Management Summit
Legislators Propose Electronic
Signaling Devices for Mountaineers, OR
Chimney Rock purchased by Hickory Nut Gorge
State Park, NC
Arches National Park Update, UT
AF NEWS
EVENTS
Vertical Times 74 The February Issue is Now Online!
NATIONAL NEWS
Act
Now!
Texas State
Parks are in a vulnerable position resulting from inadequate and declining
state funding over the last decade. These parks include Hueco Tanks, Enchanted
Rock and McKinney Falls, all of which contain climbing or bouldering. As a result of this funding decline, coupled with
ever-increasing costs, the state parksÕ current budget shortfall has lead to
lay-offs, partial closings and curtailment of park programs, especially for
youth. When the budget for TexasÕ climbing parks suffers your climbing future
is at risk.
Your help is needed
to secure adequate funding for climbing parks in Texas.
There are currently two
bills up for approval this session in the Texas Legislature, HB 6 and SB 252,
which if passed would remove a cap on the allocation of sporting goods taxes
towards TexasÕ state and local parks (also including ReimerÕs Ranch). These
bills could result in a much-needed increase in funding to Texas State Parks
and enable the restoration of park programs, hiring of additional staff, and
new and improved park facilities that would benefit climbers and other
recreational users. In short, the approval of HB 6 and SB 252 could result
in a long-term investment in TexasÕ climbing parks.
Also in the works is a
proposal by Texas state legislators and agency commissioners to transfer more
than 20 state park properties in Texas from the Texas Parks and Wildlife
Department (TPWD) over to the Texas Historical Commission (THC). THC insists
that Hueco Tanks is no longer targeted for transfer though it was initially.
Hueco is certainly a desirable asset as the premiere archaeological resource in
the state and we must assure that it stays off the THCÕs list for transfer.
With THCÕs mission centered on the preservation of archeological and cultural
landmarks in Texas, climbing access at Hueco could change under THC management.
The
Access Fund is taking action to support the approval of HB 6 and SB 252 and
oppose the transfer of state parks, including Hueco Tanks, from TPWD to THC.
The Access Fund is
taking the following actions:
Now is the time to
invest in the future of climbing at Hueco Tanks. If you are a Texas state resident contact your
state legislator and urge them to:
(1) improve funding for
state and local parks
(2) oppose the transfer
of recreation-based parks to the Texas Historical Commission.
Visit http://accessfund.org/pdf/Hueco_Talking_Points_2_9_07.pdf to read talking points and find information on
who your state representative is in Texas.
If you are a non-Texan
who has visited and enjoy the climbing opportunities at Hueco Tanks, check the
next ENEWS (sign up here if you donÕt already receive it) to fill out an economic impact survey and show
your local influence.
If you want to ensure
future climbing and bouldering access to Hueco Tanks and other climbing parks
in Texas, now is the time to speak up.
Stay tuned to the Access
Fund ENEWS for updates to this issue.
For more information
about Hueco visit:
http://accessfund.org/pubs/en/e-news22.html and http://www.huecorockranch.com
Contact the Access Fund
for more information: jason@accessfund.org
On March 10 and 11 the
Access Fund will host a National Climbing Management Summit in Golden, CO. This
conference will provide a forum for land managers from across the country to
discuss and share specific Òclimbing management practices that work.Ó
Increasingly, public
land agencies implement varying climbing management policies despite similar or
identical mandates and management obligations. There exists a need for better
communication and understanding between public land managers and the climbing
community to avoid management problems, inconsistent regulatory interpretations
and enforcement, and to facilitate Òbuy-inÓ by climbers concerning land manger
obligations, needs and programs.
A better understanding
of effective climbing management policies and improved communication among land
managers and the climbing community will work to keep us all climbing.
If you are a land
manager and are interested in attending, please email Access Fund Policy
Director Jason Keith at jason@accessfund.org.
Following hi-drama
rescue efforts this winter on OregonÕs Mt. Hood, electronic signaling devices
(ESDs) have been touted by the media as key to saving lives.
Responding to these
recent events, the Oregon governor recently issued an executive order (http://governor.oregon.gov/Gov/docs/executive_orders/eo0701.pdf) establishing a Search and Rescue Task Force to
review Oregon laws, rules and policies pertaining to search and rescue
operations and to recommend contemporary best practices for search and rescue
operations. Now, a new bill in the Oregon state legislature (HB 2509) would
require the use of ESDs by any individual or group engaging in mountain
climbing above timberline during a five-month period in the winter. The
proposed law would also require commercial guides, under certain conditions, to
carry an altimeter, contour map and a compass. For more details see www.leg.state.or.us/07reg/measures/hb2500.dir/hb2509.intro.html.
Public criticism of HB
2509 was swift. Many point out that most ESDs will not serve as effective
rescue tools and could cause the inexperienced to rely on them inappropriately
(for example, use these one-way devices as avalanche beacons). Moreover, people
carrying cell phones and ESDs may take more risk than normal, thinking that
they can easily summon help. Alternatively, mountaineers who do not carry
an ESD, yet know of the new legal requirement, may hesitate to ask for help for
fear of penalty, thus further endangering themselves and rescuers. In short,
the unintended but very real consequence of this proposed law will be more
risks by mountaineers and lost time by rescuers.
Opponents of this bill
also complain that the requirements to carry additional equipment are applied
in a discriminatory fashion to mountaineers only (it doesnÕt apply to hikers,
skiers, or, snowmobilers) despite surveys of rescue efforts that show that
these other recreational user groups generate more search and rescue hours. Moreover,
it is generally easier to locate people above tree line and much more difficult
to locate people in the forest where ESDs devices would not be required under
the proposed law.
.
The Access Fund believes
that outdoor enthusiasts should take responsibility for their own safety and
responsibly use appropriate rescue equipment. However, the state should not
require the use of ESDs as these devices can create a false sense of security
that rescue is available. Also, penalties for failing to carry an ESD may
create a disincentive to contacting rescuers, thus further endangering everyone
involved. To comment on HB 2509 (whether you live in Oregon or not) email the
Oregon legislature at: www.leg.state.or.us.
For more information contact Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith at jason@accessfund.org.
By Brad
McLeod, Access Fund Board Member
On January 30, 2007, The
State of North Carolina announced plans to officially buy Chimney Rock (996
acre parcel) for $24 million. Sean Cobourn, past President of the Carolina
Climbers Coalition stated "The CCC has been lobbying for this and today
the dream came true. CRP will now be included in the new Hickory Nut Gorge
State Park. Don't pull out your rack yet, but keep your fingers crossed that we
can negotiate access to this gem."
The purchase of the
Chimney Rock parcel adds to the expanding 2,264 acres of Hickory Nut Gorge
State Park which includes Rumbling Bald known for its fantastic crack climbing
and a hillside strewn with hundreds of boulders.
The Carolina Climbers
Coalition has worked hard over the past years to work out the details of
purchasing the Rumbling Bald tract from private landowners and transferring
this land to the newly formed State Park.
Sean Barb, current
President of the CCC explained "This is obviously a really, really big
deal for more than just the climbing community. Fortunately for climbers, North
Carolina State Parks are skilled at balancing the provision of recreation with
natural resource protection. Lets all look forward to working within the State
Park's planning processes which will ensure that future generations will have a
wonderful park to enjoy."
Chimney Rock sits on the
opposite side of the rugged gorge overlooking Lake Lure and is punctuated by a
400 ft. waterfall and stunning 300 ft. chimney.
By Sam Lightner Jr.,
Access Fund Board Member, Arches Task
Force Coordinator, ASCA South East Utah Representative
In May of 2006 the
National Park Service (NPS) placed a moratorium on new fixed anchors in Arches
National Park. This moratorium bans pitons (or bolts) on existing aid routes,
effectively making many of the established routes in Arches closed to future
ascents.
Similarly, any new
climbs requiring descent anchors are also now banned. Both Arches and
Canyonlands (where fixed anchors are also now currently prohibited) contain a
very large number of desert towers and the potential countless new single pitch
routes and these new fixed anchor restrictions greatly limited climbing
opportunities. However, the NPS plans to start a new climbing management plan
governing both Arches and Canyonlands later this year which may address some of
the current climbing restrictions.
After the May 2006
Arches fixed anchor ban the Access Fund immediately stepped in to try and
alleviate the situation by improving relations with the South East Utah Group
of the NPS. Through meetings with park officials it became clear that the new
climbing restrictions in Arches resulted from public outcry about the
controversial climb of Delicate Arch last May which forced land managers to
make a rule that was not good for climbers.
A group of local Moab
climbers, working with the Access Fund and the American Safe Climbing
Association, has begun to work with the NPS to try and give climbers a better
image by cleaning up anchors and removing old webbing from towers and other
visible routes within Arches.
Park administrators have
so far been receptive and the improving relationship will hopefully help the
Access Fund negotiate an end to the anchor moratorium and eventually produce a
new climbing policy that accommodates climbers. In the meantime, it is
important that climbers not add anchors to existing or new routes, forgo the
use of chalk, and follow trails, washes, and slick rock when approaching
climbs.
For more information
contact Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith at jason@accessfund.org.
By
Keith K. Daellenbach, Madrone Wall Preservation Committee
The Parks Advisory Board
(PAB) reviewed Clackamas County Parks Department staff recommendations for the
next five years parkÕs budget on 23 January. Thirty-five projects were
recommended by County Parks staff for funding from an overall budget of $6.437
million. Included in the staff recommendation were two Madrone Wall
allocations.
A $40K ÒHardscrabble
Master PlanÓ allocation was recommended for FY2007-2008. The master plan would
plan for park activities and uses, capital expenses, traffic studies, on-site
parking needs/design, and state highway approach. The master plan should be completed in nine to twelve months
after the fiscal year starts on July 1, 2007.
A second recommended
allocation by County Parks was for ÒMadrone Park ImprovementsÓ to occur four
years later in FY2011-2012
(ÒYear 5Ó) for $300K. Creating
required on-site parking is identified as the single largest capital expense;
other capital expenditures include a porta-potty, signage, and trail materials.
Three separate estimates acquired by the MWPC last fall show the cost to grade
and finish a parking lot for 50 cars will cost a maximum of $40K for gravel and
$70K for asphalt. While these estimates do not include surveying, permitting, or
site preparation, they do indicate that park improvements may be significantly
less than what this $300K capital allocation allows for.
The MWPC has lined-up
several professionals, including cartographers and traffic engineers, willing
to donate pro bono time to assist the planning process further reducing County
costs. It is critical that the County follow through with their goal to make
this a priority by establishing funding for capital improvements in years
immediately following the FY2007-2008 park master planning process. This logic is applied to other County projects
and the Madrone Wall should not be an exception. The master plan should not
languish four years before something concrete is accomplished.
The next PAB meeting on February
20th at 7:00 p.m.
will be critical. This meeting will further refine the ParkÕs budget and
finalize recommendations for consideration by the Commissioners. Reallocation
decisions at the January PAB meeting will provide the opportunity to move up
Year 5 Madrone Wall capital funding to FY 2008-2009, which is warranted.
Take Action:
While it is up to the
PAB Chair to take comments from visitors, if you would like to provide input,
we encourage you to attend this critical planning meeting. t will be held on
Tuesday the 20th in Room 436 of the CountyÕs Sunnybrook Service
Center (9101 S.E. Sunnybrook Blvd., Clackamas). We also encourage you to
contact the Commissioners directly (www.co.clackamas.or.us/bcc/)
and register your support for the timely creation of a County park in a
park-barren area with massive anticipated population growth in Damascus. The
Board of County Commissioners review of PAB budget recommendations and setting
FY 2007-2008 budget.
ItÕs Easy: Know a climber whoÕs not a member? Get them to join and receive
free stuff. The more people you get to join, the more free stuff you get!
Every time your name is entered as a referrer, you are entered into a contest
to win a rope.
PLUS
á
REFER
TWO FRIENDS and
receive a Nalgene Flask.
á
REFER
FOUR FRIENDS and
receive a Nalgene Flask and a dri-release wool T-shirt from Outdoor Research.
á
REFER
SIX FRIENDS and
receive a Nalgene Flask, a dri-release wool T-shirt from Outdoor Research, and
a North Face merino wool beanie cap.
PLUS
The top referrer will receive a bonus gift package worth over
$150.
REFER your friends by sending them to this NEW link:
http://www.accessfund.org/AFfriend
á
If they
become a member, they are also entered into a contest to win a free rope.
á
They
must enter your name in the ÒReferred byÓ box on the join form in order for
their membership to count towards your total tally.
á
Awards
will be sent on a quarterly basis as your referrals accumulate.
á
Program
will reset January 1, 2008.
á
The
Access Fund reserves the right to substitute any gift based on availability.
EVENTS
**A big thanks to these recent Access Fund Fundraisers that
went the extra mile bringing in tremendous money and members helping to keep
your climbing areas open and conserve your climbing environment!
Michigan
Ice Fest
A huge thanks to the
gang at Down Wind Sports for putting on yet another outstanding Michigan Ice
Festival. Bill always puts on an amazing event and each year around 50 members
join or renew their AF memberships at the event and this year was no exception.
It was exceptional actually. Thanks for another great event!
Ragged
Mountain Foundation Winter Party
Getting the word out
and bringing in the AF members! Thanks Jeff for including the AF.
Go to http://accessfund.org/events/events.php for a full list of events across the country.
02/16—02/19
Cody, WY. 9th Annual Water Fall
Ice Festival
02/24—02/24 The
Spot Bouldering Gym, Boulder, CO.
ABS Season Finals
03/23—03/25
Red Rocks, Las Vegas, NV. Red Rock Rendezvous presented by Mountain
Gear!
http://www.mountaingear.com/rr07/
03/24—03/24
Boulders Climbing Gym, Madison, WI.
Boulders Brawl, 6PM
www.wisconsinoutdooraccess.org
MEMBER BENEFITS
Get
member only discounts on all the new stuff in the Access Fund MemberSHOP! www.accessfund.org/membershop.
You must be a current member to receive
benefits and have your member ID# to login. If youÕre a current member and
donÕt know your member ID#, contact kerry@accessfund.org.
If you recently joined, please allow 6-8 business days for your ID# to be
assigned and uploaded to our secure server.
100%
Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Those old T-shirts you've been wearing have more
perforations than Swiss cheese at City of Rocks. By purchasing our T, you can
rebel against corporate dress codes and battle for climbers' rights at the same
time. Artwork by Mike Tea. Sizes S, M, L, XL. $20 non members/$18 member price NOW IN STOCK!
100%
Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Designed for a comfortable fit and ideal
for steep sport climbs, bold runouts or just hanging out. Artwork by Mike Tea. Sizes S,
M, L. $20 non members/$18
member price NOW IN STOCK!
Higher Ground Coffee
Access Fund Blend Ten Percent of proceeds fund preservation and maintenance
of our climbing areas.
Did you know
that Access Fund members receive free shipping on web orders from Mountain
Gear? You must access the Mountain Gear site through the AF MemberSHOP after you login.
Buy
a CLIF Bar Cool Tag Renewable wind energy credit keeps about 300 lbs of CO2 out of the
air and helps the Rosebud Sioux Tribe build a wind farm in South Dakota
Magazine discounts from Alpinist,
Climbing, Rock & Ice, and Urban Climber
Cruise
to the AF website and play ASANA PackWorks' video game Gunther's Big Day www.accessfund.com/extras/game.php Click through to ASANA's site to purchase the
full version. $10 from each purchase made through this link will be donated to
the AF. Go Gunther! Thanks ASANA!
Access
Fund Ambassador Chris Sharma sending a first ascent in the boulderProject promo
spot at www.accessfund.org/extras/promo.php
AF
Ambassador Timmy OÕNeil Òtakes care of businessÓ in Indian Creek http://www.accessfund.org/extras/tic.php
Please check
out the February Issue of the Vertical Times at
Are
you a federal employee? Did you know you can donate to The Access Fund through
the federal government's Combined Federal Campaign (CFC)?
Federal
employees, including federal civilians, military personnel, and U.S. Postal
Service workers can donate to AF through the federal government's Combined
Federal Campaign (CFC). The CFC is a charitable fundraising program where you
give to the Access Fund through automatic payroll deductions.
If
you are a federal employee, please look for the Access Fund (agency # 2361) in
the official CFC listing of eligible donors. You can also make your
contribution on-line by going to: www.conservenow.org, click on Search for a
Charity, type in Access Fund and make your contribution there.
If you have
additional questions on these programs please contact Whitney Self at: whitney@accessfund.org.
For other
ways to give:
http://www.accessfund.org/support