E-News 93
July 2008
THE BETA
ACTION ALERT
AREA UPDATES
Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson Visits NC and CA
New LCO in Northern California Forges Ahead
AF NEWS
Access Fund Gives Over $10,000 to Support Conservation and Acquisition Projects
TeamWorks/Adopt-a-Crag Underway
Put Your Artwork on an AF T-Shirt!
Clif Bar Gift Card Benefits the Access Fund—Buy One Today
Travel and Win $500 in GORE-TEX® Gear!
EVENTS
MEMBER BENEFITS
Evolv Rock Shoe Benefits Access Fund
Complimentary Rock and Ice 2008 Gear Guide for Members
Free Membership at eConscious Market
ACTION ALERT
Climbers Letters Needed to Help Open Minnewaska State Park to Climbing
Minnewaska State Park, which hosts numerous 50 foot crags on 200 foot quartzite cliffs–part of the greater Shawangunk Ridge (the Gunks) in New York– is revising its Master Plan and potentially significantly expanding climbing opportunities in the Shawangunk region.
On July 8th and July 10th, the Park held open house events to explain the forthcoming planning process and solicit public input. Local climbers and the Gunks Climbers Coalition (GCC) (www.gunksclimbers.org) attended both meetings and Park representatives duly noted their requests for expanded climbing opportunities. The Park is accepting written comments until August 11th. After reviewing the public comments, the Park will write a Draft Revised Plan. The public will then have another opportunity to comment before the Park adopts a final plan.
Currently Minnewaska State Park only permits climbing in the Peters’ Kill area. Local climbing activists and the Access Fund worked to open this area to climbing during the original master planning process in 1996. The Park’s management of the Peters’ Kill area, which limits daily use to 100 climbers, has successfully balanced resource protection and recreational use. Additionally in cooperation with the Park the GCC has organized regular Adopt a Crag events.
The revision of the Master Plan presents an opportunity to work closely with Minnewaska park management in order to open more areas of the park to climbing. The GCC has indicated to the Park desired plans to actively participate in the planning process.
Climbers should write Minnewaska State Park by August 11th urging officials to permit climbing in the entire park. Letters should be addressed to:
Mark Hohengasser
New York State Office of Parks Recreation and Historic Development
Empire State Plaza
Agency Building
Albany, NY 12238
Mark.hohengasser@oprhp.state.ny.us
Larry Wheelock - NY West Hudson Representative
New York - New Jersey Trail Conference
156 Ramapo Valley Road
Mahwah, New Jersey 07430-1199
Tel: 201-512-9348 Ext 16
Fax: 201-512-9012
Mobile: 973-650-3228
Email: wheelock@nynjtc.org
Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson hit the road this June with site visits to Asheville, North Carolina and San Diego, California. In early June Brady visited with members of the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) and Boone Climbers Coalition (BCC) who are working on access issues and opportunities at Grandmother boulders, Asheboro boulders, Laurel Knob, Rumbling Bald, Chimney Rock, and Perry’s Paradise. “It was great to meet with the CCC and BCC. Both local climbing organizations (LCOs) have done so much for climbing access in North Carolina and really are model LCOs, “ said Brady. “And, of course, I enjoyed climbing at my old backyard crags.”
Later in the month, Brady met with members of the Allied Climbers of San Diego at their annual Summer Celebration Fundraising event. While in San Diego, Brady had the opportunity to visit climbing areas within the Cleveland National Forest that are threatened with an extensive proposed closure. (See Access Fund Action Alert: http://www.accessfund.org/display/page/AA/54.) “Seeing the closure area in person really underscores how overreaching the Forest Service’s proposal is,” noted Brady. “The proposed closure goes well beyond the sensible bird nesting closures in place at climbing areas across the country. There is plenty of room for climbers and birds of prey in the Cleveland National Forest. The climbers I met with are committed to protecting raptor habitat and would support a more focused management strategy. I am confident we will be able to find a good compromise.”
On June 27, at Sacramento Pipeworks (owned by Access Fund Corporate Partner
Touchstone Climbing), climbers from the Sacramento area had their second
organizational meeting. CRAGS (Climbing Resource Advocates for Greater
Sacramento) will now be the official name of the new Access Fund Affiliate.
They chose nine people to be on the Board of Directors and will be filing
Articles of Incorporation in the next month.
CRAGS is a nonprofit organization protecting access to Northern California
climbing areas; advocating for climbers' interests; constructively addressing
the concerns of landowners and other land users; and working to keep climbing
areas clean, safe, and healthy.
Contact norcalclimbing@gmail.com for more information.
AF NEWS
The Access Fund has an opening for a Grassroots Coordinator to manage and grow Adopt-a-Crag, TeamWorks, and the Grassroots Action Network.
Resumes are being accepted until August 1.
Click here for a full job description and resume submission details.
The Access Fund awarded over $10,000 to support local climbing activism and conserve the climbing environments. In the second round of the Climbing Grants Preservation program, the Access Fund supported five projects proposed by local climbing and conservation organizations. Grant recipients were CRAG-VT, Utah Open Lands, Yosemite Climbing Association, and Friends of Muir Valley.
CRAG-VT will use Access Fund grant monies to assist in the acquisition of Upper West Bolton Cliff (a.k.a. Upper West) in Bolton, Vermont. Less than 30 minutes from Burlington and Montpelier, Upper West is one of northern Vermont’s most popular and historic cliffs. It hosts 250-foot traditional climbs, ice climbs, and a boulder field. For more information, contact Travis Peckham, President of CRAG-VT, at tfpeckham@gmail.com.
Utah Open Lands received grant funds for its Castleton Tower trail and campground improvement project. On October 24-26, Utah Open Lands will host a three-day Adopt-a-Crag event at the base of Castleton Tower to improve the Castleton Tower access trail, trailhead, and primitive climbers’ camp. For more information, contact David Erley of Utah Open Lands at dderley@frontiernet.net
Yosemite Climbing Association will use its grant award for the five-day Yosemite Face-Lift Adopt-a-Crag. This annual Adopt-a-Crag event attracts hundreds of volunteers to the U.S.’s premiere climbing destination. For more information, contact Ken Yager, President and Executive Director of Yosemite Climbing Association, at YCA@inreach.com.
Friends of Muir Valley’s grant award will contribute to the improvement of creek crossings and the at Muir Valley Climbing area in Kentucky. Muir Valley, a newly developed climbing area, has seen increased visits in the last few years. To learn more email Fomv.lco@gmail.com.
Funds awarded to the Western Colorado Climbers Coalition (WCCC) will assist the newly formed Local Climbing Organization with startup costs. The WCCC, based out of Grand Junction, Colorado, is fundraising to purchase privately owned portions of Unaweep Canyon. For more information or to donate to the Unaweep acquisition, email western_co_climbers@hotmail.com.
TeamWorks is the Access Fund’s new program designed to get indoor youth teams participating in Adopt-a-Crag events. Teams earn points by hosting and attending Adopt-a-Crags. The top ten teams will win a cash grant from the Access Fund. Additionally, the first place team will receive a full--page write up in Urban Climber magazine.
TeamWorks would not be possible without the support of partners REI, The North Face, Urban Climber, Clif Bar, Nalgene, Leave No Trace, Routesetter.com, and USA Climbing.
So far 47 gym teams have joined TeamWorks. That’s over 600 young climbers ages 11-19 helping take care of the places we play.
If you are an RC, Affiliate, or youth team coach that would like to participate in TeamWorks, email Charlie at charlie@accessfund.org. He would love to help you.
Thanks to all the teams that have signed up so far. This means you…
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Higher Ground |
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Hidden Peak |
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Edgeworks Climbing Gym |
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EarthTreks Climbing |
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Spire Climbing Center |
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Adams City High School |
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Vertical World |
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Boulder Rock Club |
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Team Spot |
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Estes Park Mtn Shop |
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The Rock Climbing Center |
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Atlanta Rocks |
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Escalade Rock Climbing Gym |
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Adrenaline Climbing |
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Pipeworks |
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Touchstone(5 gyms) |
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Planet Granite |
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Rock Sport |
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Rocknasium |
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Granite Arch |
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Twisters |
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Class 5 Fitness |
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The Crag at Cool Springs |
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Gritstone Rock Club |
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Arcadia Rock Climbing Gym |
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Wall Crawlers |
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Stone Gardens |
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Rock'n & Jam'n |
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Tennessee Bouldering Authority Gym |
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Stone Age Climbing Gym |
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The SLO-OP Climbing Gym |
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Austin Rock Gym |
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Atlanta Rock Gym |
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Alaska Rock Gym |
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Stone Moves |
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Team Texas |
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Adventure Rock |
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Sero Gravity |
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Dallas Rocks |
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Dyno-Rock |
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Coaca ClimbX |
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Boulder Class |
Are you organizing or participating in an Adopt-a-Crag this year? If you are a climber, you should. Adopt-a-Crag is one of our most powerful advocacy tools because it shows decision makers that climbers take care of the places where they play. Please do your part!
Help us reach our goal of 140 events nationwide by registering your Adopt-a-Crag event today. Trash clean up? Trail maintenance? Hardware replacement or climber signage? Invite the local community out to celebrate their crag!
To register an event or to find one in your area visit: www.accessfund.org/adopt.
The Access Fund is in search of artwork for the next AF membership tee. You’ll get more than 15 minutes of fame if we select your art—you’ll get a monster gift package and a write-up in an issue of E-News and Vertical Times. And your art will be sent out to every Access Fund member for the next year.
Send us a sample of your artwork. Submissions should reflect climbing or mountain views and be formatted as PDFs or in an online gallery.
Email to randy@accessfund.org by August 15th.
UClimb is a fun event dedicated to bringing people across the country closer to the outdoors. Learn to climb or improve your skills in a comfortable, small-group setting with other amateur climbers. Professional instructors will guide you through the basics of climbing, safety, and conservation. This weekend adventure is an ideal introduction to the world of rock climbing.
This is a great way to bring your family together. Check out some of these upcoming events:
Donner Summit, CA, July 19 - 20, 2008
Estes Park, CO, August 23 - 24, 2008
Exit 38, North Bend, WA, August 30 - 31, 2008
Red River Gorge, KY, Sept. 13 - 14, 2008
The Clif Bar Family Foundation introduces On Your Behalf, a unique gift card program that encourages charitable gift exchange and allows gift card recipients to make contributions to the organizations of their choice. To increase exposure and provide essential funding to grassroots organizations, On Your Behalf has partnered with 23 beneficiary groups focused on a wide array of social concerns, including environmental restoration and conservation, sustainable food systems and agriculture, and public health.
Similar to other gift card programs, gift givers can purchase the On Your Behalf Gift Card in any denomination on the Clif Bar Family Foundation website. The gift card recipient can then donate the card’s balance to one or more of the On Your Behalf partner organizations.
It’s the perfect gift for the climber who has everything.
www.clifbarfamilyfoundation.org/onyourbehalf
The GORE-TEX® brand, with help from the Adventure Travel Trade Association, identified the Top 10 GORE-TEX® Footwear Summer Travel Destinations where travelers can experience the diversity of both outdoor adventure and urban leisure travel.
EVENTS
Make any event an Access Fund fundraiser and/or member drive. It’s so easy—register your event online and we’ll set you up with the membership materials you need and the swag to get people excited. www.accessfund.org/events/eventreg.php
Tonight! 07/16/08, Boulder Theatre, Boulder, CO, 8 pm
Perfecto – Rock Climbing Above the Sea
A Mike Call Film Starring: Katie Brown, Ethan Pringle, Chuck Fryberger and
more.
Last season, a small group of climbers traveled Mallorca’s sea cliffs to learn
the intricacies of deep water soloing and to try, unrehearsed, some of the
hardest – and most aesthetic – routes in the world.
Advance tickets are available for $10 at the Spot Gym and
the Boulder Theatre.
For more information, visit www.perfectothemovie.com.
07/19—07/20 Donner Summit, CA. 2008 UCLIMB EVENTS sponsored by Mountain Gear. 800-829-2009 www.uclimb.org
09/13—09/14 Red River Gorge, KY. 2008 UCLIMB EVENTS sponsored by Mountain Gear. 800-829-2009 www.uclimb.org
09/18—09/21 Salt Lake City, UT. Hera Foundation's Climb4Life Fundraiser www.herafoundation.org
10/11—10/12 Shenandoah National Park, VA. Shenandoah Rockfest: Adopt-a-Crag clean up, slideshows, and more! www.dcmetroclimbing.com
Please register your crag clean-ups as an Adopt-a-Crag to strengthen our communal efforts. Adopt-a-Crag is the largest climber volunteer effort year after year and land managers notice. Be a part of it! www.accessfund.org/cons/aac.php
08/02 Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve, KY. The 4th Annual John Bronaugh & Alex Yeakley Crag Day, an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition, the Lago Linda Hideaway, Miguel's Pizza, Red River Outdoors, and True North Outfitters. Website: www.rrgcc.org, Bill Strachan, cpstatyk@pipeline.com
08/16 Mt. Evans, CO. The Rock'n & Jam'n Youth School Clean-Up, a TeamWorks Adopt-a-Crag hosted by the Rock'n & Jam'n climbing gym youth team. 10am. Website: www.climbingthebest.com, Amy Carden, amy@rocknandjamn.com
08/16 Leavenworth, WA. Careno Crag Clean-up, a TeamWorks Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by the Edgeworks Climbing Gym Youth Team and Washington Climber's Coalition. Website: www.edgeworks-climbing.com, Mike Kimmel, mkimmel@ups.edu
MEMBER BENEFITS
Get member-only discounts on all the new stuff in the Access Fund MemberSHOP! www.accessfund.org/membershop
Evolv QUEST-AF 1% of all sales go to the Access Fund.
Dear fellow climber,
On behalf of Rock and Ice and the Access Fund, please check out this complimentary digital edition of our 2008 Gear Guide. This year, I'm pleased to say that the Gear Guide is more useful than ever and is loaded with critical reviews of gear, from rock shoes to harnesses to bags and tents. Back by popular demand, we've also included our B.I.G. (best in gear) awards. To earn a B.I.G., a piece of gear has to prove itself in the field by being more innovative or better (or both) than all the rest. Please click here to view the digital edition and see for yourself.
*You must allow pop ups for www.realread.com.
Safe climbing,
Duane Raleigh
Publisher and Editor in Chief Director
Rock and Ice
eConscious Market is the Internet's largest philanthropic eco marketplace featuring eco-products for your home and office, work and play. Every time you shop, you give too. 50% of net profits from your purchase will be donated to the Access Fund!
For a free eConscious membership:
Go to: www.econsciousmarket.com/site/Become-A-Member
enter: accessfund (no spaces all lowercase) as your promo code
enter email and password and verify password
select Free (PROMO CODE REQUIRED, includes member only discounts)
100% Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Designed for a comfortable fit and ideal for steep sport climbs, bold runouts, or just hanging out. Artwork by Jeremy Collins. $20.00 non-member / $15.00 member. NOW IN STOCK!
The perfect block heater for long ice-routes, crisp bouldering sessions, or a bad hair day. 100% Merino wool. A soft fleece lining adds a little extra protection from the elements. Tastefully co-branded with the Access Fund and The North Face logos. One Size. $15 non-member / $13.50 member. NOW IN STOCK!
Cruise to the AF website and play ASANA PackWorks' video game Gunther's Big Day (www.accessfund.com/extras/game.php). Click through to ASANA's site to purchase the full version. Ten dollars from each purchase made through this link will be donated to the AF. Go, Gunther! Thanks, ASANA!
AF Ambassador Timmy O’Neil “takes care of business” in Indian Creek www.accessfund.org/extras/tic.php
AF Ambassador Chris Sharma sending a first ascent in the boulderProject promo spot at www.accessfund.org/extras/promo.php
Are you a federal employee? Did you know that you can donate to the Access Fund through the federal government's Combined Federal Campaign (CFC)?
Federal employees, including federal civilians, military personnel, and U.S. Postal Service workers, can donate to AF through the federal government's Combined Federal Campaign. The CFC is a charitable fundraising program that enables you to give to the Access Fund through automatic payroll deductions.
If you are a federal employee, please look for the Access Fund (agency # 12047) in the official CFC listing of eligible donors. You can also make your contribution online by going to (www.conservenow.org), clicking on “Search for a Charity,” typing in “Access Fund,” and making your contribution there.
If you have additional questions on these programs, please contact Ellen Jardine at ellen@accessfund.org.