The draft General Management Plan (GMP) for Great Falls Park, Virginia has very strong implications for rock climbing. The National Park Service (NPS) preferred option would unnecessarily close three climbing areas for climbing and restrict access to a fourth area. The draft GMP also proposes permits for climbing, permanent anchors and implies possible further access restrictions. This plan, once finalized and published, will guide the management direction of Great Falls Park for the next 10-15 years.

Please send your formal comments on the draft plan to:
GWMP _Superintendent@nps.gov (cc: greatfallsaccess@gmail.com) by December 15th, 2005.

YOUR VOICE MAKES A DIFFERENCE.

Friends of Great Falls (FOGF) ( www.friendsofgreatfalls.com) is a coalition of climbing organizations and individual climbers who have organized to provide a unified voice on behalf of the climbing community in regards to the future of climbing at Great Fall Park. Over the past three months, individuals from this group have met on numerous occasions with NPS staff. FOGF has extensively researched the various statements in the draft plan concerning the impact of climbing on natural resources and the justification proposed for many of the proposed changes. FOGF has summarized the issues and their conclusions at www.friendsofgreatfalls. com/documents/FOGF_Points_Summary.pdf. This document provides and in-depth analysis of the draft GMP/EIS, as well as FOGF’s suggested responses to the proposed alternatives.

In general:

Alternative B, the NPS preferred choice, could end recreational climbing at Great Falls if implemented as proposed.
The scientific reports referenced in the draft GMP/EIS, and on which Alternative B is based, are old, incomplete, and in some cases, unavailable to the public. This is not an adequate basis on which to make far-reaching decisions, particularly FOGF is denied the opportunity to review the assessments (as is currently the case).
There is inadequate detail in the draft GMP/EIS to fully evaluate the impacts of the GMP/EIS proposals on climbing. There is no evidence in the GMP/EIS indicating that climbing is an issue at Great Falls in terms of impacts on natural resources.
Climbers are environmentally conscious, and honor access restrictions where the need for these can be demonstrated. However the draft GMP/EIS implies closure of cliffs is the only means of protecting rare resources. FOGF believes it may be entirely feasible to protect natural resources by other measures.
The draft GMP/EIS favors resource protection over recreational use of Great Falls Park where climbing is concerned does not recognize the importance of Great Falls Park as a local and national climbing resource, the best climbing area within 3 hours drive of the DC area.
FOGF is in favor of Alternative A, the “no changes” proposal. This effectively means climbing would continue as at present, except for access to Gorky Park, the MicroDome and the Flat Iron.

Your input to the National Park Service could save climbing at Great Falls. To make this as easy as possible, FOGF has prepared a list of points and an example of a letter at http://www.friendsofgreatfalls.com/comment.html .

It is very important that all climbers respond. If you live locally, please emphasize the significance of the park as a local climbing area and the long tradition of climbing there. If you reside outside the DC region, emphasize the importance of Great Falls as an international climbing point of interest. ACT TODAY!