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Virtual Times #17
March 2002
http://www.accessfund.org/
Submissions/comments for the Virtual Times are welcome via email
to john@accessfund.org
E-News Online
IN THIS ISSUE:
1. Access Fund Awards Over $30K
in Climbing Preservation Grants
2. AF Launches the Access Fund Activists' Forum
3. Access Fund Meets with Congress and Federal Agencies
in Washington, DC
4. Access Fund Attends Special Wilderness Training Conference
in Arizona
5. Lumpy Ridge Trail and Parking Relocation Environmental
Assessment Available for Public Comment
6. Proposed Power Plant Threatens Smith Rock, OR
7. Draft Climbing Management Plan for the Obed Wild and
Scenic River
8. Horse Pens-40, AL
9. Visitor Plan for Flatirons to Be Released Soon
10. Changes Coming to Denali Climbing Program
11. Forest Service Reopens Climbing Areas in Colorado
12. The Access Fund is looking for volunteers!
13. Wanted: New Members
1. Access Fund Awards Over $30K in
Climbing Preservation Grants
Funding to Support Conservation, Land Acquisitions, Education
The Access Fund has awarded more than $30K
in its first Climbing Preservation Grants cycle of 2002. Presented
three times annually, these grants provide financial assistance for
local climber activism and protection of the climbing environment
in the United States. Eight of nine applications were approved this
cycle totaling $33,980 in funds for trail improvements, preservation
of private lands from development, conservation easements and solutions
to waste disposal problems in the mountains. "The Access Fund
has budgeted $120K in grants this year," said Shawn Tierney,
access and acquisitions director. "We're proud to fund these
important initiatives on behalf of our members, corporate partners,
volunteers and the entire climbing community."
The following grants were awarded this round:
Castleton Tower Preservation Initiative
/ Acquisition project, Utah
$20,000 was awarded to Utah Open Lands to help pay for the acquisition
of 221 acres of open space adjacent to the famous Castleton Tower,
near Moab, Utah. This land includes the traditional climbers' campground
and parking area for Castleton, the Priest, the Nuns and the Rectory.
East Animas Climbing Access Project,
Colorado
Up to $11,000 was awarded to the Durango Climbers Coalition for preserving
access to East Animas, the premiere local climbing resource in the
Durango Area. The grant will pay for the purchase of an easement for
parking and trail access to this area. The project is a partnership
between the BLM, La Plata County, private landowners and the local
climbing community.
Boat Rock Acquisition Project, Georgia
$10,000 was awarded to the Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC) to
assist in the purchase of Boat Rock. This seven-acre site offers good
climbing on granite boulders in the Metro Atlanta area, but access
is threatened since this property is a target for developers.
Denali Clean Mountain Can Project 2002,
Alaska
$5,480 was awarded to Denali National Park to support an innovative
project to reduce impacts and waste disposal problems at high altitude.
The project will position 200 human waste containers known as "Clean
Mountain Cans" at 14,000-feet on popular routes. Use of the cans
above this height will reduce or eliminate the need for the current
high altitude toilet.
Rocky Mountain Field Institute Trails
and Education Projects, Utah
$4,000 was awarded to Rocky Mountain Field Institute for trail building
and erosion control work in Indian Creek on the approach to Scarface
Wall and Broken Tooth.
Pennsylvania Alliance of Climbers Inc.
Start-up Grant, Pennsylvania
$1,500 was awarded to the new grassroots climbers group, Pennsylvania
Alliance of Climbers (PAC). The group will focus on access, education
and land acquisition issues. PAC's first project is the lease of a
central PA bouldering area known as Governor Stable.
Lower West Bolton Trail and Erosion Control
Project, Vermont
$1,000 was awarded to the climbers group, Crag Vermont, for erosion
control and trail construction work at Lower West Bolton Cliffs. This
crag is privately owned, but the initiative demonstrated by Crag Vermont
in offering to help take care of the property has encouraged the landowner's
support for continued climbing access.
Looking Glass Rock Trail and Education
Project, North Carolina
$1,000 was awarded to Pisgah Climbers Association (PCA) for construction
of a climbers' education kiosk at Looking Glass Rock, NC. The project
is one of a series planned by PCA in partnership with Pisgah National
Forest to improve the condition of trailheads, trails and the base
of climbs at Looking Glass.
For more information on the Access Fund Climbing
Preservation Grants click:
http://www.accessfund.org/programs/programs_prog.html
2. AF Launches the Access Fund Activists'
Forum
We are pleased to announce that our new, "secure"
online communication tool is up and running. The Activists Forum
is for the exclusive use of Access Fund partners and field representatives,
including Regional Coordinators, Local Climbing Organizations, and
members of the board of directors.
The concept of developing a confidential discussion forum on the Access
Funds web site was identified at last year's Activists' Summit
(the AFs bi-annual training for climber activists) as a highly
desirable "service" the Access Fund could provide to support
internal dialogue and more effective advocacy. Our Regional Coordinator
Network currently consists of 40+ climbing activists around the country-
activists with a diverse range of knowledge, skill and experience.
The purpose of the Activists Forum is to facilitate the exchange
of information and expertise among people who are working closely
with or for the Access Fund, and who must occasionally share privileged
information about legal issues, land transactions, and other sensitive
subjects. We expect to expand the capabilities of the Activists
Forum in the near future to also provide an online communication tool
for Access Fund members.
3. The Access Fund Meets with Congress
and Federal Agencies in Washington, DC
In February, Jason
Keith, Access Fund policy analyst, met in Washington DC with
members of Congress and high-ranking officials from the land
management agencies regarding recreational use fees and the
management of fixed anchors in Wilderness. The Forest Service
is developing a proposal for legislation that would make the
Recreation Fee Demonstration Program ("Fee Demo")
permanent, but which would include some critical improvements.
Keith met with Representative Scott McInnis (R-CO), and other
congressional members on the Interior Appropriations Subcommittee
to advocate for an exemption for backcountry and wilderness
area access.
Keith also met with agency officials in the US Forest Service
and BLM to push for a final policy on the use and placement
of fixed anchors in Wilderness. The Access Funds proposal
would allow climbers to continue to use existing fixed anchors
without restriction, but would require some form of authorization
for placing new bolts in designated wilderness areas. We are
hopeful the agencies will approve management guidance for this
issue later this year. The AF will continue to work actively
to ensure that climbers ability to enjoy wilderness is
not compromised or curtailed. For more information, contact
Jason Keith at mailto:jason@accessfund.org. |

Jason Keith, AF policy analyst, defending
your climbing freedoms in Washington, DC.
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4. Access Fund Attends Special Wilderness
Training Conference in Arizona
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Keith presents a slide show
about the importance of Wilderness climbing to land managers
and advocates at a recent conference in Arizona.
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In early March, the Access Fund made
a presentation to officials from the federal wilderness management
agencies at the National Wilderness Stewardship Training Center.
Jason Keith, AF policy analyst, joined a panel discussion providing
perspectives from various advocacy groups. Jasons PowerPoint
presentation illustrated why Wilderness climbing is so important
to climbers, how fixed anchors have been used in Wilderness,
and the pros and cons of the Negotiated Rulemaking process,
which failed to produce a unanimous policy recommendation to
the Forest Service in 2002 (the Access Fund was one of the participants
on this committee, which was stymied by two wilderness "purists"). |
5. Lumpy Ridge Trail and Parking Relocation
Environmental Assessment Available for Public Comment (report submitted
by Larry Gamble, Chief of the Branch of Planning & Compliance,
Rocky Mountain National Park)
An Environmental Assessment (EA) for the Relocation of the Twin Owls
& Gem Lake Trailheads is available for public review and comment.
Copies of the EA are available in several formats: On the Internet
at http://www.nps.gov/romo/
Once you've opened the Rocky Mountain National Park home page, click
on FACTS/DOCS on the right side of the page. When the next page opens
you can click on the Gem Lake - Twin Owls EA to open a PDF file.
If you would like to have a PDF file sent to you, or if you want a
paper copy, contact Larry Gamble at
(970) 586-1320. In order to conserve paper (the EA is 155 pages),
please do not request a paper copy unless you really need one. Comments
must be in writing, but they can be e-mailed, faxed, mailed, or hand-delivered.
Comments must be received by April 19, 2002.
6. Proposed Power Plant Threatens Smith
Rock, OR
Cogentrix Energy Company recently announced a plan to build a gas-fired
power plant very close to Smith Rock State Park. The proposed facility
would be the largest power plant of its type in the Pacific Northwest
and could adversely affect the climber's experience at Smith Rock.
Construction could begin this Fall. If you are concerned about how
this proposed power plant could impact climbing at Smith Rock, sign
an online petition at http://www.petitiononline.com/Grizzly/petition.html.
For more information about this issue click http://www.redheeler.net.
7. Draft Climbing Management Plan for
the Obed Wild and Scenic River
The National Park Service has completed an Environmental Assessment
and Draft Climbing Management Plan for the Obed Wild and Scenic River.
The Obed has become a very popular climbing area with climbers from
the Southeast and Midwest, offering high quality sport and trad routes
on excellent sandstone. The Access Fund has been working with local
climbers and the NPS to prepare this draft plan. You may obtain copies
of this document on the web at www.nps.gov.obed, under the facts/doc
link, or by calling the Obed Visitors Center at (423) 346-6294. The
Preferred Alternative allows sport climbing within established climbing
zones at Lilly Bridge Area and continues the moratorium on new sport
routes until a comprehensive resource study can be completed. Climbers
are encouraged to provide written comments to Kristin Stoehr, Unit
Manager, Obed Wild and Scenic River, Box 429 Wartburg, TN 37887, or
mailto:Kris_Stoehr@nps.gov.
Comments must be received by April 8, 2002.
8. Horse Pens-40, AL
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Horse Pens-40, near Birmingham, Alabama, was
closed last fall when the company that owned the site encountered
financial difficulties. Horse Pens-40 is one of the best bouldering
areas in the southeast. Various parties claiming ownership
of the 160-acre property have filed lawsuits. The Access Fund
is actively working to restore and preserve access for climbers
while ownership issues are resolved through the courts. Check
our web site or http://www.seclimbers.org/
for regular updates as negotiations continue.
Photo courtesy of Brad McLeod
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9. Visitor Plan for Flatirons to Be
Released Soon
The City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks Department in Colorado
is preparing to release a Visitor Plan for public comment this Spring.
Three years in the making, the Visitor Plan will establish new policies
and guide management of recreational activities, trails, access, commercial
operations and monitoring efforts. The plan will affect many significant
climbing resources such as the Flatirons, the Maiden, Matron, Fern
Canyon and bouldering areas (including the Ghetto, Terrain Boulders,
Satellite Boulders, and Flagstaff Mountain).
Although it is not yet known what changes are proposed for climbing
management, the Visitor Plan may impose use restrictions and closures
in some areas. The plan probably will call for trail projects to preserve
access while minimizing impacts to climbing areas. The Access Fund,
along with the Flatirons Climbing Council and local climbers, has
been working with Open Space staff to prevent unreasonable and unnecessary
restrictions from being imposed. A public meeting will be held this
spring in Boulder when the draft plan is ready. Check the Access Fund
website for regular updates.
More information about the Visitor Plan can be found on the Open Space/Mountain
Parks website at: http://www.ci.boulder.co.us/openspace
or by calling the Department directly at 303-441-3440.
10. Changes Coming to Denali Climbing
Program
In recent months decision regarding climbing issues at Denali National
Park (DNP) have been issued. DNP has agreed to decrease the 60-day
pre-registration requirement to seven days for climbers who registered
to climb Foraker and Denali since 1995. Climbers who previously registered
with DNP need only seven days prior to their departure date to register
and pay a $25 deposit. The remaining $125 of the $150 mountaineering
fee is due upon check-in at the Talkeetna Ranger Station. The shorter
pre-registration period will simplify planning for new routes and
climbs dependent on weather conditions.
The Final General Management Plan (FGMP) removed the proposal to prohibit
backpackers and climbers from parking at trailheads and major parking
lots. In additions, users will not be required to use/pay for a shuttle
system during peak seasons. The Plan includes developing a shuttle
system for peak season. All Park visitors will have access to trailhead
parking lots on a first-come, first-served basis until full. The shuttle
system will serve climbers when the lots fill.
Thanks to the American Alpine Club for their work to support climbing
at Denali and Ranier.
11. Forest Service Reopens Climbing
Areas in Colorado; Access Fund Position
on Wildlife Closures
The Forest Service has reopened popular climbing areas near Boulder,
Colorado that were closed recently to protect birds of prey during
the nesting season. In Boulder Canyon, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress,
and the Security Risk Area (including the Bihedral and Happy Hour
Crag), are open as of March 22. Eagle Rock remains closed to all recreational
activities, probably through July 31, 2002.
Volunteers from the Colorado Division of Wildlife and Boulder County
Nature Association helped to monitor these nesting areas, and when
it was determined that no birds had nested, the Forest Service lifted
the climbing restrictions.
"This is a good example of the importance of monitoring raptor
nesting," said Shawn Tierney, Access Fund access and acquisitions
director, "Climbers will cooperate with reasonable and flexible
restrictions to give birds of prey a good chance of nesting. We appreciate
the Forest Services commitment to reopening climbing areas where
nesting does not take place."
The Access Fund recognizes that a progressive approach to managing
recreation such as climbing requires a balance of priorities, among
them protection of wildlife. Therefore we only support limited, seasonal
closures to promote successful raptor nesting, as long as two conditions
are met: the oversight agency relies on regular monitoring of nesting
progress, and restrictions are lifted as soon as it is determined
that no nest has been or is likely to be established.
In general, the Access Fund does not support mandatory closures of
climbing resources, unless there are compelling legal or scientific
reasons for such restrictions. In the absence of such reasons, we
have endorsed voluntary restrictions in climbing areas such as Devils
Tower National Monument in Wyoming and Pinnacles National Monument.
12. The Access Fund is looking for
volunteers!
If you have some spare time and are interested in helping the Access
Fund keep climbing areas open and protect the climbing environment,
please contact Events Coordinator Kate Cavicchio and add your name
to our volunteer list. Call 1-888-863-6237 x112 or email mailto:kate@accessfund.org.
13. Wanted: New Members
The Access Fund is the largest climbers advocacy group in America,
and the only organization dedicated solely to preserving access and
protecting the climbing environment. We currently have over 10,000
members, but if we had twice that many we could be twice as effective!
Our influence in Washington DC, and our ability to buy threatened
lands, represent climbers in resource management planning and policy-making,
and support local climber activism, is directly proportional to the
number of members we have. We encourage all the recipients of this
e-mail to join us if you have not already. If you cannot or will not
become a member, we would appreciate knowing why send us a
quick email to mailto:info@accessfund.org.
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