Access Fund E-News #41
March 2004
E-News Online
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1. Update on Cave Rock: July-August, 2004 Voluntary Closure
2. Access Fund Releases Bouldering Paper: Unique Resource to Benefit Land Managers
3. Arizona's Oak Flats Threatened by Mining Proposal
4. The Boulder Project
5. Adopt-the-Butte Day
6. Save a Tree - receive your VT online. "The Last 10" Crazy Creek Sale
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1. Update on Cave Rock: July-August, 2004 Voluntary Closure
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In response to the recent decision by the United States Forest Service (USFS) to uphold the Cave Rock climbing ban, on December 15, 2003 the Access Fund filed a lawsuit requesting the courts overturn a USFS management decision (see file at http://www.accessfund.org/programs/CaveRock_complaint.htm).
Climbing is the only activity to be prohibited by the USFS under its Record of Decision (ROD). According to the forest supervisor's decision, there will be an immediate ban on climbing, while other "compatible" recreational activities such as hiking, fishing and picnicking will be allowed to continue because these other activities do not conflict with the "feeling and association" of Cave Rock. US Hwy 50, which runs through Cave Rock via a dynamited tunnel, lies just a few feet away from the climbing area.
In late November, through negotiations with the USFS and their attorneys, the Access Fund was able to obtain an administrative stay that stopped implementation of the ROD until a U.S. District Court rules on the matter. This will occur after both sides have presented written arguments to the court this summer.
Recently the USFS, through their attorneys, requested the Access Fund support a voluntary climbing closure for the months of July and August 2004 "to protect the area during this high use time of the summer," stated the USFS. The Access Fund has agreed to support this voluntary closure out of respect to the religious practices of the Washoe during these two months. Whether or not you as an individual climber respect the voluntary closure, it is critical that you obey all the rules and in no way give cause to encourage the USFS to take a stricter approach. While the lawsuit is pending in court, all recreational activities that are currently permitted (including rock climbing on existing routes) will be allowed to continue at Cave Rock. The temporary order that prohibits installation of new fixed anchors will remain in place.
As always, the Access Fund encourages climbers to respect other users and be sensitive to people for whom Cave Rock has religious and spiritual significance. Please follow these guidelines when climbing at Cave Rock:
- Refrain from climbing in July and August 2004 in support of voluntary closure
- Do not place new or replace existing fixed anchors
- Act respectfully to all user groups
- Use restroom facilities at the boat ramp or pack it out
- Report any user conflicts or removal of fixed gear to the Access Fund and the USFS.
Obey all USFS rules and regulations
For a complete report and to see a photo of Cave Rock, visit:
https://www.accessfund.org/programs/pr_cave-rock_3-04.html
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2. Access Fund Releases Bouldering Paper: Unique Resource to Benefit Land Managers
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The Access Fund is proud to announce the publication of a unique resource providing the first-ever overview of bouldering issues and management approaches in the Unites States, "Bouldering: Understanding and Managing Climbing on Small Rock Formations" is intended to provide a knowledge base for managing bouldering as a unique form of outdoor recreation, and contains an overview of bouldering, participant demographics, impacts caused by bouldering and management considerations.
"The tremendous growth of bouldering in recent years has fueled many of the emerging access issues at numerous areas around the country including Bishop, CA; Joshua Tree, CA; and the Ross Lake Recreation Area of the North Cascades, WA" said Shawn Tierney, Access Fund access and acquisitions director. "Given the growing popularity of climbing and outdoor recreation it is critical that management practices are in place to protect natural resources while allowing for diverse climbing experiences. The goal of this paper is to share information and encourage greater consistency in climbing management in the US."
Copies of Bouldering will be available to anyone working on climbing issues. Copies will also be sent to land managers, educators, Access Fund regional coordinators, and local climbing organizations. Copies will also be available as a PDF on the Access Fund website.
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3. Arizona's Oak Flats Threatened by Mining Proposal
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Access to Arizona's Queen Creek/Oak Flats area -- home to the Phoenix BoulderBlast (formerly, the Phoenix Bouldering Contest) -- may be lost forever if the Resolution Copper Company decides to move forward and the US Forest Service approves a mining proposal to extract billions of dollars worth of high-grade copper -- believed to be the biggest copper ore body in North America -- located thousands of feet beneath the Oak Flats campground. There is substantial concern of ground subsidence due to the mining activities below, and therefore for liability reasons the mining company would like to prohibit any public access to the areas above where the mining may occur (that is, most of the bouldering and roped climbing in the region). At this stage Resolution has begun "informal discussions" with the US Forest Service's Tonto National Forest concerning the proposal. For more information call the Tonto National Forest in Phoenix, AZ at (602) 255-5200, log on to their website at www.fs.fed.us/r3/tonto/indexy.html, or email the Tonto's Deputy of Public Affairs Vincent Picard at vpicard@fs.fed.us. Central Arizona climbing activists have been in touch with the Forest Service as well as the project manager for Resolution Copper to discuss the proposal. In March, the Access Fund's Policy Director Jason Keith traveled to Phoenix to meet with climbers and mining interests to identify possible outcomes and strategies to maintain climbing and bouldering access at Oak Flats.
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4. The Boulder Project
By Deanne Buck, Access Fund Grassroots Coordinator with help from Robb Shurr, Ojai International
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We all have our obsessions, our boulder projects. Lying awake in bed chasing the shadows with our hands, memorizing the sequence by moonlight. We visualize our project and its completion over and over in our minds. The moves, which at one time were impossible, seep into the realm of attainable. "Next season," we tell ourselves as we sip our last cup of joe at the Kava Coffeehouse before heading down Highway 395 out of Bishop. Access to boulders is not eternal, though. Our hardest challenge might not be the dyno to a one-handed mantle sequence, but mastering the techniques of awareness and respect - for land, for life, for one another, for ourselves.
The Boulder Project brings climbers together and creates synergy in the climbing community to ensure that boulder projects remain open even after all of us have sent our problems. Ultimately the Boulder Project is a way of life, thinking, making choices, building relationships, and taking actions that stretch well beyond bouldering. It's an awareness that we and the world are evolving.
Bouldering creates an intriguing tension. On one hand is the natural world; there is something about mountains, deserts, and the rock that excites us, and in their midst we push ourselves to perform at our highest level. Yet equally, the enormity of it all diminishes our importance in the earth's affairs. The Boulder Project is about respecting this tension, owning our actions as they affect our climbing environment, and working to ensure the preservation of climbing access well beyond the completion of our boulder project. The future of bouldering, especially when it comes to access, rests in all of our hands through the actions and choices we make today.
How can climbers be a part of the Boulder Project? Easy, let your passion for climbing inform your choices. Become involved, share your love of climbing with non-climbers, encourage shops and retailers to cater to climbers, let your land managers know your passion for bouldering, encourage your bouldering posse to organize a clean-up, mentor younger boulderers, realize that your choices and actions today affect access for future boulderers, and most importantly, continue to get outside and send your boulder project. For more information, visit https://www.accessfund.org/programs/boulderproject.html
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5. Adopt-the-Butte Day
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Join the Access Fund, Mazamas Access Committee, SOLV and REI as we Adopt the Butte. We will be picking up litter, trimming back vegetation, and working along the trail near the base of the rock. This project is in conjunction with an Earth Day project on 4/24 with Portland State University and the Portland Rock Gym. All tools will be provided, please wear boots and gloves, and bring water and a lunch. Other sponsors include, Clif Bar, Red Bull, and Johnson Creek Watershed Council.
When: Saturday May 15, 2004
Where: Rocky Butte
Time 9:30 meet with a 2:00 finish
Contact: Tony Holmes at nwwilderness@aol.com or Kellie Rice at kellie_rice@beavton.k12.or.us
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6. Save a Tree - receive your VT online
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The Access Fund is still giving members the option of viewing Vertical Times online instead of receiving the paper version. This decreases printing and mailing costs, thus allocating more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. To take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, e-mail your name and address to memberservices@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.
Presently, 1500 members have chosen our online option -- a savings of $7500 per year to be utilized towards the Access Fund's Mission to preserve and conserve the climbing environment. You can download a PDF version of the current Vertical Times at www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html
(Adobe Acrobat is required)
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