
The October AF E-News is sponsored by Urban Climber Magazine, an Access Fund Corporate Partner. The Access Fund is proud to announce that Urban Climber Magazine's Dreams in Bleau showcased at the prestigious New Paltz Film Festival on Saturday, October 9. Dreams in Bleau, the first video release from IndeVisual Productions, opens with a special segment profiling the Access Fund and the benefits of membership. The film is an extension of the feature article Dreams in Bleau written by Joe Iurato and published in Urban Climber Magazine's Launch Issue. Since its release, Dreams in Bleau has received unprecedented national and international acclaim, and has become a powerful outlet for the Access Fund's message. Copies of the Dreams in Bleau DVD are only available to subscribers of Urban Climber Magazine. For more information, visit www.urbanclimbermag.com .
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IN THIS ISSUE:
Access Fund Awards $8,600 in Climbing Preservation Grants
Western Regional Workshop a Huge Success
Your Voice Needed to Preserve Bouldering in Arizona
Adopt-a-Crag reaches all time high: 100 events around the country
Give the Gift of an AF Membership
Vertical Times #60 (October Issue) is Now Online as a PDF
Moon Cancer Fund Benefit Auction
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(Editorial by Steve Matous, Access Fund Executive Director)
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In my role here at the Access Fund I have the great pleasure of meeting and interacting with climbers all over the country. This happens at public meetings, climbing events, political forums, Adopt-a-Crag stewardship projects and just getting out climbing. Being a vast country it may be a while before I meet with you personally but I feel like I receive a broad base of input. A consistent message I hear is that our elected officials and the managers of our public lands, while they may not take all the actions we want, do listen when we speak up, and especially when we show up in large numbers and speak our minds.
When I first turned 18 (and could vote) the Vietnam War was just winding down and the draft still in place (I had a low number for the draft) so I had plenty of incentive to vote. Anyone who tells you your vote does not matter is absolutely correct, if you do NOT vote. While you may seem lost in a vast sea when you think of presidential politics I can tell you here in CO at least one US Congressman was elected to office by a handful of votes, and many local elections come down to a difference of less than 10 votes.
For our work we find great help from Republicans and Democrats alike. The old cliché "all politics is local" is very true when you get down to advocating for climbing access and conservation. Cast your vote in favor of those who have supported your efforts and deny it to those who legislate or regulate in ways contrary to your beliefs, it will make a difference.
You have the power, use it! Get out and vote in November--it will make a difference!

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Access Fund Awards $8,600 in Climbing Preservation Grants to Support Climber Activism, Conservation and Education; $10,000 Emergency Relief Fund Established
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The Access Fund has awarded $8,600 in its third round of grant funding for 2004. Awarded three times annually, Climbing Preservation Grants provide financial assistance for local climber activism and protection of the climbing environment. The grants will be distributed for trail improvements, education and assistance for a newly formed local climber organizations.
The Access Fund also established a $10,000 emergency relief fund to help pay for restoration projects at climbing areas in the southeast hit hard by the September hurricanes. The Access Fund will accept grant applications for this money until the end of 2004.
"The Access Fund is committed to preserving the climbing experience for present and future generations," said Shawn Tierney, access and acquisitions director. "We're proud to fund these important initiatives on behalf of our members and the entire climbing community."
The following were awarded in the final round of 2004 Access Fund Grants:
Friends of Queen Creek, Arizona
The Friends of Queen Creek (FOQC) received a grant to help with the their effort to preserve public access to Oak Flat and Devil's Canyon. This area represents a unique climbing resource with over 2,000 boulder problems and more than 800 routes. This is the site of the Phoenix BoulderBlast as well. Currently there are plans to build a large copper mine at this site.
Little Si, Washington
The Mountains to Sound Greenway Trust was awarded a grant to complete upgrades to the Little Si trail, which provides access to a popular climbing area. The trail has received heavy use since the construction of a new trailhead and is in need of upgrading to ensure continued protection of resources and safety for trail users.
Wichita Mountains Climbers Coalition, Oklahoma
A grant was awarded to the Wichita Mountains Climbers Coalition (WMCC) to produce climber education brochures at two climbing areas: the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge and Baldy Point at Quartz Mountain Nature Park. The brochures will be made available at trailheads, visitor centers, and climber kiosks free of charge.
Carolina Climbers Coalition, North Carolina
The Carolina Climbers Coalition was awarded a grant to help pay for the updating and printing of their climber education brochures.
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Western Regional Workshop a Huge Success
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The Access Fund held a one-day workshop for climbing activists in Bend, OR on Friday, October 15. The goal of the workshop was to discuss threats to climbing access in the northern California, Oregon, and Washington region. Activists, regional coordinators, and representatives from the Central Oregon Climbers Coalition, Washington Climbers Coalition, and the Smith Rock Group were in attendance, among others. The agenda focused on building constructive relationships with land managers and owners, local climber organizations, climber education/outreach, and northwest access issues. Look for a full report and summary of the meeting in next month's e-news.
The Access Fund would like to extend a special thanks to the crew from Metolius ( www.metoliusclimbing.com ) for their participation in the workshop, and for generously hosting a climbers gathering in town on Saturday evening!
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Your Voice Needed to Preserve Bouldering in Arizona -- Call Congress and Urge them to Support the Protection of Oak Flat
(report by Jason Keith, Policy Director)
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The Access Fund continues to work on a number of fronts to advocate for continued public access to the Oak Flat/Queen Creek area east of Phoenix, AZ. Access to portions of this unique bouldering area--home to the Phoenix BoulderBlast (formerly, the Phoenix Bouldering Contest which is the largest climbing event of its kind in the world)--may be lost forever if a mining proposal by Resolution Copper Company is approved to extract billions of dollars worth of copper. If this proposal goes through, substantial ground subsidence to the Oak Flat campground--right where the Phoenix BoulderBlast takes place--could cause the ground to collapse hundreds of feet.
For liability reasons, the Resolution Copper would like to limit any public access to the areas above where the mining may occur (that is, much of the region's bouldering and roped climbing). In sum, the proposed mine could affect access to thousands of bouldering problems and roped routes and as such could be the largest loss of a climbing resource ever in the United States. For more information check out www.accessfund.org/pdf/VT58.pdf .
(Pictured from left) Jim Waugh, Jason Keith, Curt Shannon and Brent Bingham on a site tour of Queen Creek earlier this month.
The Access Fund continues to work with the Friends of Queen Creek ( www.friendsofqueencreek.com )--a group of local Arizona activists dedicated to maintaining public access to the larger Queen Creek area--to keep people bouldering at Oak Flat. The Friends met in June with US Congressman Rick Renzi (Oak Flat is in his congressional district) to state our case, and in July the Access Fund's Steve Matous and Jason Keith traveled to Phoenix and met with the offices of Governor Napolitano, and US Senators McCain and Kyl. In October AF Policy Director Jason Keith joined FoQC members for a site tour of Oak Flat with staff from the Governor's office, and traveled to Flagstaff to meet with Paul Babbitt, a candidate for Arizona's 1st Congressional District seat currently held by Rick Renzi.
Your voice is needed to help maintain access to Oak Flat. With elections approaching your politicians are more keen than ever to listen to your concerns. If you live in Arizona, call or write your politicians, say you are a constituent, and express your concern regarding Oak Flat access. Even if you don't live in Arizona, give these same politicians a call and tell them how valuable and unique Oak Flat is to all Americans that travel there.
Talking points to focus on include: Oak Flat is a unique, multi-use resource that enjoys long-standing federal protection (President Eisenhower issued a protective executive order back in the 1950s); users of Oak Flat are mobilized to assure continued protection; users of Oak Flat are aware that the site also has potential mineral resources owned by Resolution Copper; the Friends of Queen Creek are not anti-mine nor anti-development, but development cannot be at the expense of this irreplaceable resource; and if development is pursued, it must be subject to full public participation, not in the vacuum of a legislated land swap.
For contact information regarding Arizona elected officials, log onto www.congress.org. In particular, focus on Governor Napolitano, US Congressman Rick Renzi, and US Senators McCain and Kyl. A sample advocacy letter on the issue can be found at www.accessfund.org/programs/Queen_letter_6_04.html .
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Adopt-a-Crag reaches all time high: 100 events around the country
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Adopt-a-Crag is the Access Fund's signature event, a national commitment by the climbing community to natural resource stewardship and volunteerism. Title Sponsor Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI), Presenting Sponsor W.L. Gore, and Supporting Sponsor Clif Bar are the Access Fund's partners in presenting this event. It is their continual support of grassroots organizing and events that enabled Adopt-a-Crag to grow.
Adopt-a-Crag events span from late August to mid-November and from Maine to California, from Alaska to Georgia. Adopt-a-Crag organizers and volunteers have cast the net of climber goodwill and stewardship over the entire country! Through all of their efforts, we are connecting climbers to each other and building relationships with land managers and owners. According to Jason Anthony, Park Ranger at Hanging Rock State Park in North Carolina "It is with great enthusiasm that we receive assistance from groups like the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) who share our concern for our park's natural resources. Furthermore, your volunteer efforts in the park help others in the community and in the division see your commitment to our North Carolina State Parks. We are honored to be able to include the CCC on our list of supporters."
Congratulations to all who organized, participated in, and supported Adopt-a-Crag this year. It was a banner year and we are looking forward to continued success in the future.
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Give the Gift of an AF Membership
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Haven't yet come up with a holiday or birthday gift for your climbing partner? Running out of ideas for the climber who has more gear than they know what to do with?
How about giving the gift of an Access Fund membership?
Call today to 888-8-MEMBER (888-863-6237) x104 or click on https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php
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Vertical Times #60 (October Issue) is Now Online as a PDF
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The October issue of Vertical Times (volume 60) is online as a PDF file for downloading. The issue offers additional news and photos (not included in the Access Fund E-News). It can be downloaded directly (888 KB file) at https://www.accessfund.org/pdf/VT60.pdf
The Access Fund is still giving members the option of viewing Vertical Times online instead of receiving the paper version. This decreases printing and mailing costs, thus allocating more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. To take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, e-mail your name and address to memberservices@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.
Presently, 1851 members have chosen our online option - a savings of over $9255 per year to be utilized towards the Access Fund's Mission to preserve and conserve the climbing environment. You can download a PDF version of the current Vertical Times at http://www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html . (Adobe Acrobat is required)
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Moon Cancer Fund Benefit Auction
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Silent auction, slide show by MoonFoto, food and beverages to raise money for the Moon Cancer Fund on October 23rd in Bend, Oregon.
Ben Moon is a 29-year-old freelance adventure and travel photographer based out of Bend, Oregon. His images captured across the globe are regularly published by companies such as Patagonia and Metolius. Ben's photos have also graced the covers of Rock & Ice and Trail Runner magazines. Along with his photography, Ben is an athlete at heart. He competed internationally as a collegiate rower, and now takes advantage of his photo assignments to rock climb and surf in far off locations. Ben also practices yoga and is an avid cyclist.
In early June, Ben's travels came to a halt when he was diagnosed with colorectal cancer. This disease rarely affects the young and athletic, yet Ben is fighting this head on. He has undergone major surgery, chemotherapy and radiation, with at least 4 more months of intensive chemo to follow.
For more information on the Benefit Auction, visit www.mooncancerfund.org.
photo: MoonFoto.com

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