E-News 74
December 2006
THE BETA
DonÕt
Wait For Someone Else To Stuff Your Stocking!
Record Rain
Forces Closure of Mt. Rainier National Park, WA
Interior
Department to Raise Federal Land Fees to $80
Human-Powered
Outdoor Alliance Holds Series of Recreation Meetings In Washington, DC
Closure
Threat Becomes Reality at Torrent Falls, KY
Southeastern
Climbers Coalition pays off
Boat Rock Mortgage ahead of Schedule, GA
Carolina
Climbers Coalition, NC Update
Boone
Climbers Coalition Update
Wisconsin
Outdoor Access Update, WI
Legendary N.
Texas Rock Climber and Environmental Advocate, Jimmy Ray Forester, Dies in Fall
at 43
The Access Fund
Welcomes New Board Members
Prana Receives
2006 Green Power Leadership Award
EVENTS
DonÕt
Wait For Someone Else To Stuff Your Stocking!
Vertical Times
73 The December Issue is Now Online!
Order by December 18th
to assure delivery by December 24th!
EPIC Package
Epic Package includes:
Access Fund membership (with or without T-shirt), Access Fund limited edition
Prana Hoody, Royal Robbins Rockcraft (out of print), Trango Piranha knife,
MountainSmith cell phone carrier, a Nalgene, Clif Bar, and some All Terrain
sunscreen.
2 sizes available:
$55 or $62
Quantities even more
limited than before—Order by December 18th for delivery by
Christmas.
Happy Holidays! WeÕre
always askingÉnow weÕre giving.
WeÕd like to send you a FREE
2007 CALENDAR (Yes, FREE though
you pay the shipping and handling).
To claim yours, visit www.accessfund.org/calendar today!
No strings attached.
These are available because of a gracious donation from photographer James
Frank
NATIONAL NEWS
From
Steve Matous, Executive Director, Access Fund
The
Holiday season is upon us. For the Access Fund, this is when most of the
resources that keep us all climbing come in the door. ItÕs exciting and
stressful at the same time—so much of what we can accomplish as a
community of climbers hinges on the financial support of our members.
Mother Theresa said, Òwe
can not do great things, we can only do small things with great loveÓ. We all
share a love for climbing and a passion for keeping our climbing areas
protected for ourselves and future generations.
We received a donation
yesterday from 8 week old Grayson Shurr, son of AF staffer Robb Shurr. Granted,
he may have had a little help from his dad, but having two children of my own
it underscored the importance of what we do here at the Access Fund.
ItÕs not necessarily
altruism that motivates us to keep our climbing areas open—itÕs the
belief and pursuit of our passions and dreams. We want future generations to
experience the same love of our vertical playgrounds that we are able to enjoy.
We do whatever it takes to make this a reality.
At this time of year, it
takes financial contributions to keep our work moving forward coming closer to
realizing our vision. Please do your part as a climber and give to the
organization that supports your dreams—if not for you, for future
climbers.
On behalf of the
climbing community, a heartfelt thanks for the contributions youÕve already
made and for considering an additional donation this Holiday season. If you
know climbers who are not members of the Access Fund, please tell them why you
contribute and why itÕs important for every climber to be an Access Fund
member.
Best Holiday Wishes,
Steve Matous
Contribute here: www.accessfund.org/support
Mount Rainier is a
restless mountain. The roads, bridges, trails, and campgrounds we build are
secondary to the elemental forces that created-and continue to transform-this
landscape we love. Our great works of human enterprise will fade away with
time. The mountain will endure.
For the first time since
Mt. St. Helens blew its top, Mt. Rainier National Park closed its gates to the
public due to a torrential November 5-6 storm that also caused extensive damage
to other regional national parks and forests in the Pacific Northwest.
After nearly 18 inches
of rain fell in 36 hours, massive flood damage forced the closure of Mount
Rainier National Park when high water damaged a variety of park roads, trails,
campgrounds, buildings and facilities. Many power, water and sewer lines were
also demolished. The first big snowfall of the season hit a few days after the
rain, and so a final damage assessment will have to wait until spring.
Photographs of the flood damage can be viewed at http://www.nps.gov/mora/parknews/upload/floodPP.pdf (5MB).
Park officials closed
the main park road from the Nisqually Entrance to Paradise (the center for
winter mountaineering) and Highway 123 is also closed due to a rockslide. State Routes 410 & 123 and the Paul
Peak/Mowich Lake areas are also closed at the park boundaries by
winter conditions but remain open to normal, non-motorized winter
activities such as hiking, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Walk-in access
is available to Carbon River area trailheads by parking at the entrance and
hiking the designated rough route along the washed out road. For more information
see http://www.nps.gov/mora/parknews/november-2006-flooding.htm#CP_JUMP_137497
The Park said repairs
could cost an estimated $29.85 million, most of which will go towards road
repairs. NPS staff will share information on decisions, timelines, and other
factors affecting flood recovery. For information on these public meetings see http://www.nps.gov/mora/parknews/upload/CmmtyMeetings.doc. The park plans to expand its volunteer program
next spring to assist with flood cleanup and trail reconstruction. Individuals
who are interested in helping may contact Volunteer Program Manager Kevin Bacher
at 360-569-2211 ext. 3385 or Kevin_Bacher@nps.gov. The Access Fund will be offering our assistance
to Mount Rainier National Park regarding how the climbing community can help
with park reconstruction. Stay tuned to the Access Fund Enews for updates on
Mt. Rainier NP recovery efforts and how you can help out.
Starting January 1, the
$80 America
the Beautiful Pass will go on sale and become the new annual
recreation pass serving five federal agencies that manage public land.
The new $80 pass will
replace the $50 National Parks Pass and the $65 Golden Eagle Passport. The new
pass effectively raises the price to access recreation areas across the country;
Congress authorized the new pass in 2004, but didnÕt set a price until
recently.
The America the
Beautiful Pass will provide access to the National Park System, the Forest
Service, the Bureau of Land Management, the Fish and Wildlife Service, and the Bureau
of Reclamation. Like the current National Parks Pass, at least 80 percent of
the money gathered from sales of the new pass will remain in the park where it
is sold to pay for facilities-maintenance projects, such as road resurfacing
and new visitor center exhibits.
This new America the
Beautiful Pass has already proven controversial due to the higher cost and
concerns that funds will not remain where they were collected (http://www.wildwilderness.org/blog/atb-illegal.html). Other pass critics predicted the fee was so
high it would reduce visitation, pricing people out of visiting the parks (http://www.westernslopenofee.org/NoFee/news.php.
The Interior Department
defends the fee increase by saying that the pass will provide a cost-effective
and easy option for people who visit multiple federal recreation sites.
The passes may be
obtained beginning in January at http://store.usgs.gov/pass and www.recreation.gov though if you purchase a current National Parks
pass before January 2007 you will be able to use it throughout the year.
For more, see http://www.newwest.net/index.php/city/article/american_the_beautiful_pass_goes_on_sale_in_january/C466/L466/ and http://www.denverpost.com/headlines/ci_4786241.
**By buying a Parks
pass before January 1st through the Access Fund website (http://www.accessfund.org/membershop) or by using this link (https://buy.nationalparks.org/default.asp?ref=accessfund), $10 comes right back to the Access Fund. So
do it before the end of the year!
The human-powered
Outdoor Alliance (Access Fund, American Whitewater, American Canoe Association,
American Hiking Society, International Mountain Biking Association, and Winter
Wildlands Alliance) met in Washington, DC in late November to continue internal
discussions and to meet with several high-level federal land managers
concerning recreation policy through the Federal Recreation Director Summit.
While almost 150 million
Americans annually participate in recreation activities such as hiking,
mountain biking, climbing, canoeing, kayaking and backcountry skiing, the
political voice of this large constituency is not reflective of its size, and
is often overshadowed by broader groups with different recreational agendas.
The Outdoor Alliance
formed as a coalition of national human-powered recreation advocacy groups to
protect and secure quality outdoor recreation opportunities on the nationÕs
public lands and waters through a collective voice.
At the Summit the
executive directors and policy chiefs from each Outdoor Alliance organization
met with high level federal recreation officials from the National Park
Service, US Forest Service, Bureau of Land Management, Corps of Engineers and
US Fish and Wildlife Service to discuss current recreation management
challenges and to communicate better ways to work together cooperatively in the
future ensuring appropriate recreational opportunities on public lands and
waters. The Outdoor Alliance also met with USDA Undersecretary Mark Rey and
Deputy Interior Secretary Lynn Scarlett to discuss our unique concerns.
Moving forward the
Outdoor Alliance will represent the voice of human-powered outdoor enthusiasts
by coordinating and mobilizing the allianceÕs collective grassroots on key
issues, and by developing unified public messages on recreation and public
lands policy.
For more information,
Contact Adam Cramer, Leiter & Cramer PLLC, abc@leitercramer.com, 202.386.7671.
By Patrick Paul,
Southern Sierra Climbers, Association
In recent months, a new
landowner has put up a gate at the intersection of Tollhouse road
and the unpaved access road which has been the traditional way to the
top of Tollhouse Rock for climbers. Tollhouse features dozens of one to
four pitch free climbs and has been a popular winter climbing area for locals
from Fresno, Bakersfield and the greater Southern California area for decades
and sits on public land.
Prior to installing the
gate, the landowner had verbally accosted some climbers, threatened to
have people arrested, or tried to intimidate climbers in other
ways. The access road has been used for years by climbers,
four-wheelers, hang-gliders, hunters, and youthful revelers from the
nearby communities of Prather and Tollhouse. The landowner has complained
that his guests' cars have been vandalized, people have been firing shotguns
and rifles near his home, and that a great deal of trash has been strewn in the
area.
Tollhouse Rock
is on Forest Service land and the F.S. claims that only a small portion of
the road is privately owned. However, at this time it is unclear whether
the landowner has a legal right to block the road or whether the Forest Service
can legally compel him to keep it open. At least two gates have been
erected and then torn out by persons unknown. Climbers are advised to use
the longer power line road that lies directly west of the private road until
either legalities can be ascertained, or the landowner can be reasoned with and
an agreement met.
By Bill Strachan, Executive Director Red River Gorge
Climbers Coalition
In response to continued disrespectful behavior by some climbers,
the owners of Torrent Falls, a popular Red River Gorge crag, have decided to
close the area to unrestricted climbing.
Guests renting a cabin at Torrent Falls resort may still climb on
the property. This closure was announced and made effective on Friday, November
24, 2006.
When the closure was first threatened earlier this spring, the
RRGCC convinced the owners to write a set of rules and give climbers a chance
to show that they could follow them. Unfortunately not all climbers were
following the rules.
Recent flagrant incidents cited by the owners in explaining their
reasons for moving forward with the closure included someone who leashed their
dog to a ÒNo Dogs AllowedÓ sign. Another disturbing incident occurred when the
owners were showing close friends around their property and came across a woman
urinating out in the open despite the fact that the owners have provided a
port-o-let for use by climbers.
In addition to the Torrent rules having been posted in the parking
area as well as the RRGCC kiosk at MiguelÕs, the rules and the tenuous
situation at Torrent was made widely known to the climbing community on various
websites, in the Access Fund e-news, and in the RRGCC newsletter.
All indications are that 2006 was the busiest season yet for the
Red River Gorge. While the RRGCC will look at ways to improve climber education
about access issues during itsÕ planning for 2007, we are somewhat at a loss as
to how to deal with climbers who blatantly disregarded very simple and common
sense behavioral guidelines that could have kept Torrent open.
We ask that climbers please respect the tough decision made by
Mark and Kathy Meyer to discontinue open climbing access at Torrent. Also
please remember that disrespectful behavior and failure to follow rules at any
climbing area in Red River Gorge, whether on private or public land, has the
potential to negatively affect access.
Know whose property you are climbing on and what is expected of
you as a guest on that property. Detailed information on the various areas and
guidelines are readily available in Ray EllingtonÕs Red River Gorge guidebook.
By Chad Wiykle, Triple Crown Organizer
We wanted to
share details on the finale of The Triple Crown Bouldering Series--by many
accounts the Stone Fort/Little Rock City Competition was one of the best
outdoor bouldering events ever! We actually kicked-off the weekend at
Rock/Creek Outfitters on Friday December 1st at 7:30pm with a
fantastic slideshow/movie presentation and poster signing delivered by Access
Fund ambassador and Board member Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden. We had a
great turnout for this presentation with over 150 people in attendance.
As for comp day, the weather was absolutely perfect--cobalt blue
skies and temperatures in the low 50s made for ideal climbing
conditions. Over 450 climbers and bouldering enthusiasts from thirty states
and two countries were present at this competition, and over 1,200 participants
were in attendance throughout the entire series.
The goal for this yearÕs series was to raise enough money for the
Southeastern ClimbersÕ Coalition to
gain permanent access and ownership of Boat Rock
—a unique granite boulderfield and green space located inside the metro
of Atlanta, Ga. When we officially began the series in October, over
$11,000 remained on the note for Boat Rock. Through the efforts of this
event, our sponsors, and donations from climbers attending this series, we have
achieved this goal.
By Anthony Love, CCC
Vice President
Last year was a grand
one for the CCC. Some of our accomplishments include: assisting in the
inclusion of Rumbling Bald into Hickory Nut State Park (a new North Carolina
state park), purchasing 50 acres, (which includes Laurel Knob the highest rock
face in the eastern United States) and, opening Laurel Knob for public
climbing. Funds for the purchase came through worldwide donations,
contributions from the outdoor industry, and the financial and resource support
of the Access Fund.
All this activity was
primarily due to the efforts of John Myers and Sean Cobourn. John is a former
board member of the Access Fund and a significant contributor to the Laurel
Knob Project. Sean Cobourn, a founding Director of the Access Fund and current
AF Regional Coordinator, boldly led the CCC into a new era as an organization,
planned and facilitated the acquisition of the legendary Laurel Knob. SeanÕs
motivation, drive and vision transformed the CCC from a small grassroots
organization into a visible and respected climbing non-profit organization. As
a tribute, the Access Fund awarded Sean the prestigious Menocal Lifetime
Achievement Award as testament to his climbing advocacy. The CCC is especially
indebted to the incredible efforts and accomplishments of John Myers and Sean
Cobourn.
The CCC held officer
elections at our annual meeting during the Hound Ears event of the Triple Crown
Bouldering Competition. CCC officers include Sean Barb, President; Anthony
Love, Vice President; Edward Medina, Secretary; and Aram Attarian, treasurer.
In addition the new officers have appointed a board to oversee and provide
support in business matters. The new officers are excited about the challenges
and opportunities on the road ahead.
The new officers hit the
ground running with the creation of a Climbing Management Plan for Laurel Knob
(for more info please visit www.carolinaclimbers.org), implementation of a new system to manage
membership, and their continued efforts to open the Asheboro Boulders to
climbers.
Once again, I am proud
to say Laurel Knob is OPEN! The CCC has a comprehensive management plan in its
FINAL stages of revision and implementation. During this time and since its
opening, the CCC has come up with a general set of guidelines for public use at
Laurel Knob. These are posted at Laurel Knob on the climbers kiosk, and on the
CCC website (www.carolinaclimbers.org). We encourage all climbers to visit and enjoy
this incredible resource, but would like to remind all to please respect the
guidelines created for its use.
By Jonah
Harrison, Access Fund Regional Coordinator
The Washington Climbers
Coalition (WCC), an Access Fund Affiliate, Reiter Trail Watch and state land
managers have improved safety from objective hazards in Index, Washington.
Reiter Trail Watch is a not for profit group of volunteers working to preserve,
protect, increase awareness and maintain accessibility for all outdoor
enthusiasts.
Index is a
popular climbing area outside of Seattle, with hundreds of steep granite sport
and traditional routes up to Grade IV in length. The area around Index is also
very popular with off-road vehicle (ORV) enthusiasts. ORVs allow access to the
top of the Upper Town Wall, a large wall perched on the mountainside outside
the town of Index. In recent years, various objects have been thrown from the
top (from beer bottles to car fenders) and there has been many close calls with
climbers narrowly avoiding being hit.
Washington
State Parks put up several signs at the top of the wall, warning of the danger
to climbers below and threatening prosecution of those who throw objects off
the wall, but these measures have proved ineffective.
During the
past summer, Reiter Trail Watch and Washington State Parks devised a road
termination plan involving placing a barricade that would prevent motorized
access to the top of the wall. Recently, with a generous donation from the
Washington Climbers Coalition, the Reiter Trail Watch installed a sturdy,
permanent barrier in late October that will keep ORVs from accessing the top of
the cliff. This reduces the risk that anyone will be able to drive to the top
of the wall and throw objects down on climbers, and is a great example of
meeting goals through cooperation between local recreation groups and government
land managers.
By Anthony Love,
President
The Boone Climbers
Coalition (BCC) had another active fall and winter season. We have
re-strengthened our relationship with the National Park Service, our Access
Fund Board Members and officers, and most importantly our membership.
One of the BCC members,
Zachary Lesch-Huie, offered us a unique opportunity to work with the American
Chestnut Foundation and the Blue Ridge Parkway to help a project to restore
chestnut tree populations. American Chestnut Foundation scientist, Paul Cisco
worked with BCC members to collect ÒburrsÓ, which contain Chestnut seeds, from
trees along the Blue Ridge Parkway and on Grandmother Mountain. The seeds
collected during this project will be used to develop a hybrid strain on
chestnut tree that resists the chestnut blight, a disease that is responsible
for nearly wiping out this species. The American Chestnut Foundation will
reintroduce these hybrids in areas throughout the US in an effort to restore
chestnut tree populations.
This year the BCC hosted
their annual Adopt-a-Crag event at Hawksbill within the Linville Gorge
Wilderness. The trail to approach Hawksbill follows a steep grade that is
constantly under attack from erosion. Twelve members helped build water bars on
the existing trail and brush-in sections of spider trails up to the main cliffs
at Hawksbill.
Shortly after the
Adopt-a-Crag, the BCC had another record turn-out for their third annual Sudz
and Slidez event at the Black Cat Burrito. The Sudz and Slidez events have been
the most effective way to get members of our community together. These events
have been great venues for our meetings and fundraisers. This fall, we were
lucky enough to have Access Fund Ambassador Jason Kehl give a presentation.
Jason entertained a crowd of 115 people with a slideshow from his most recent
trip to Japan. Jason and our many sponsors made this another incredibly
successful and fun event for everyone.
News from the Blue Ridge
Parkway:
The BCC provided
comments to a newly proposed plan to develop a section of the Blue Ridge
Parkway known as the Moses Cone Memorial Park. The Blowing Rock Boulders lie
within the Moses Cone Memorial Park. This plan provides for the enhancement of
cultural learning in the park, but also offered closure of this important
climbing resource as one alternative they could consider. While some of the
proposed alternatives do pose threats to the Blowing Rock Boulders, there are
also other alternatives that offer the enhancement of trails into the
boulderfield and continuation of bouldering activity.
The Park Service has
sought public input to this plan and the BCC has been adamant about getting the
local and regional climbing community to provide this necessary input. We look forward
to seeing what the next round of planning produces and feel confident a
balanced plan that includes climbing can be achieved.
In other news, members
of the BCC were invited to attend the Annual Board Meeting of the Access Fund
this fall in Lake Lure North Carolina. The experience proved once again to be
valuable and educational for all involved. The opportunity to sit down and talk face to face with the board and
staff is a great asset for both the BCC as well as the Carolina Climbers
Coalition who were generous enough to host us.
For more info about the
Boone Climbers Coalition and to join our email list, please visit www.ncbouldering.com/BCC.htm
By Nick Rhoads,
President
In 2007 WOA is looking
to catalogue and define usage at all Wisconsin climbing areas. If you have any
information about usage issues at a crag near you please send all info to Nick
Rhoads at rhoadsclimbs@yahoo.com
Rusty Baille,
President
The Kootenai Klimbers
are strategizing on how to open up Outlaw Wall near Post Falls, Idaho. This is
the finest cliff in our area with 100 hundred feet of solid granite-gneiss climbing
but, alas, it sits on private land. There are several semi-completed routes on
The Outlaw and early climbers had tacit permission to climb here. With an
increase in climbing pressure, and most local landowners rushing to develop
their holdings into housing estates, we need to Òspeak now - or forever loseÓ
this great crag.
In the Spring of 2007 we
will form a group to work on access. This group will be led by one of the
climbing activists who did such an impressive job of acquiring Big Rock –
part of the Rocks of Sharon, just south of Spokane WA.
Our second initiative is
to clean up and legitimize our boulders. This project is being inspired by
Jason Baker who grew up around here and knows all the secret spots. If thereÕs
a chalk smear on an impossible hold way up there, especially if the landing is
ÒinterestingÓ, itÕs probably his!
Bouldering in the
Pacific Northwest is rather like organic gardening. Whoever said that mosses
and lichens take thousands of years to grow should check out our local varieties!
While such biotica could perhaps help rehabilitate more stricken ecosystems, it
makes rocksports here impossibly slimy. The solution (hopefully) is to work
closely with the land managers to designate key areas as biological preserves
and viewsites while identifying good bouldering that can be reasonably and
legitimately cleaned for climbing. Maybe then I can get my moneys worth from my
new super-thick, super-wide bouldering pad!
By John Anderson,
President
Access NJ website has
been down for the past 2-3 months and we apologize for the inconvenience. Please
be patient and if you are interested in donating web skills to update and
improve the site (www.climbnj.com) please contact John Anderson at info@climbnj.com. Please note that this is also the new general
email address for Access NJ.
Access NJ continues
discussions with staff and administration of Hunterdon County Park System over
the last 3 months. We are seeking volunteers to present further
information. Access NJÕs goal is to have the climbing community adopt (per
Hunterdon County's own, new, regulations) the Sourland Bouldering
Site. Contact John Anderson: info@climbnj.com
By Matthew Elliott,
President
In time for the
beginning of the ice climbing season, Northeastern Vermont Climber's Alliance
has stocked the rescue cache near the south end of the ice routes on Mt.
Pisgah. A second cache has been constructed, and will be installed in
the Last Gentleman Ampitheater on December 16. Each cache contains a
rescue backboard/sled and basic first aid supplies.
Funding for the project was provided by generous donations to an online fundraiser organized by Access Fund Regional Coord