Please join friends and family of Charlie Fowler and Christine Boskoff in a celebration of their adventurous lives on Monday, January 15, 2007 at the Historic Sheridan Opera House in Telluride, Colorado starting at 6 pm. Expect a meal with wine, a visual presentation, a cash bar, an open mike, and lots of hugs.

We’ll laugh, we’ll cry, we’ll make plans to go climbing…

The families and the Search Committee thank everyone for all the types of support that came our way. Every penny and every thought counted and will continue to do so when the search for Chris resumes in the spring.

We hope to see you on January 15th. If you can’t make it but would like to send a picture for the show or a brief story about either Charlie or Chris to be posted in an album for the families, please send it to daiva@mountainfilm.org by January 11^th.

Accommodations:

Currently, The Camel’s Garden Hotel in Telluride is offering discounted lodging for the night of the event. Call 888-772-2635 or 970-728-9300 and ask for Ryan or Scott. As other discounted lodging becomes available, it will be listed at http://blog.mountainfilm.org/

AREA UPDATES

New Jersey Action Alert

Your comments needed by january 19, 2007!

Comments Needed to Amend the New Jersey State Park Code to explicitly allow rock climbing! Deadline for Comments: January 19, 2007

Despite a long history of climbing on State Park Service lands, N.J.A.C. 7:2-2.22, effectively prohibited climbing in the State Park Service system for many years, except for certain commercial guiding services, which were allowed by special use permit. This policy changed in 2004 when, after working closely with Access NJ, the State Park Service implemented a waiver system that now permits climbing. In light of the long history of climber use of the resources in the State Park Service system and the DEP’s acceptance of climbing as a permitted use on lands within its jurisdiction, it is time that the State Park Code is amended to explicitly permit climbing, in all its disciplines, and to recognize climbing as a legitimate, valued, and positive use on public lands.

N.J.A.C. 7:2-2.22(a) provides a list of specific recreational activities on State Park Service lands that are prohibited without specific approval of the Assistant Director of the State Park Service, the Regional Superintendent or their designee. Among the listed activities is rappelling, an activity often conducted in conjunction with climbing. Furthermore, N.J.A.C. 7:2-2.22(c) provides that any other activity not specifically regulated is prohibited without approval of the Assistant Director of the Division for the State Park Service or the Regional Superintendent. Climbing is not specifically regulated in the State Park Service Code.

Here are some points you may wish to include in your comments:

1. The Department of Environmental Protection should amend the State Park Code to explicitly permit climbing in all its disciplines.

2. Climbing is found in the following New Jersey State Parks and Forests: Ringwood State Park, Allamuchy Mountain State Park, Highpoint State Park, Stephens State Park, Ramapo Mountain State Forest, Kittatinny Valley State Park, Wayawayda State Park, Jenny Jump State Forest, Abraham S. Hewitt State Forest, Norvin Green State Forest, and Stokes State Forest. Note this is not a complete list of all New Jersey climbing resources within the State Park Service System.

3. Climbers have been and continue to be willing to work with the State Park Service and NJ DEP to develop reasonable climbing regulations and area specific climbing management plans as may be necessary.

4. In each of the past three years Access NJ, with the support of the Access Fund and in conjunction with the State Park Service, has held an Adopt-a-Crag event at Allamuchy Mountain State Park in which climbers and park staff came together to improve trails and erosion control, perform site clean up, and undertake other activities to mitigate climber and other user group impacts at Allamuchy.

5. The State Park Service should eliminate the waiver system that is currently in place for climbing on State Park Service lands.

The proposed amendments and explanation can be found on line at: www.nj.gov/dep/rules/proposals/112006a.pdf

Here is how to submit a comment:

Submit Comments by January 19^th to:

Alice A. Previte, Esq.

Attention: DEP Docket Number 21-06-10/537

Office of Legal Affairs

Department of Environmental Protection

P. O. Box 402

Trenton, New Jersey 08625-0402

The Department of Environmental Protection (Department) requests that comenters submit comments on disk or CD as well as on paper. Submittal of a disk or CD is not a requirement. Each comment should be identified by the applicable N.J.A.C. citation, with the people’s name and affiliation following the comment.

If you have any questions or need help preparing comments please contact Andy Norin, who is coordinating Access NJ's response to the proposed re-adoption of the State Park Service Code. He can be reached at:

973-549-7234
973-360-9831 (fax)
andy.norin@dbr.com

Access To Hyalite Canyon Ice Climbing In Jeopardy, MT

By Emily Stifler

The new Gallatin National Forest travel plan severely threatens access to the world-class ice climbing in Hyalite Canyon near Bozeman, Montana. The plan closes and gates Hyalite Canyon road, the only reasonable access road to the ice climbing, between January 1 and May 15. This decision effectively reduces a 5-month ice climbing season to five weeks, eliminates 77% of all ice climbing and over 92% of the beginner and intermediate climbs in the Bozeman area.

How you can help:

1. Take a 5 minute survey

The Southwestern Montana Climbers Coalition’s and First Ascent Press have created an online survey for all ice climbers. The results of this survey will help in policy arguments for access to ice climbing resources in other areas, as well. The survey can be accessed at www.hyalitecanyon.com or directly at:

https://www.surveymonkey.com/s.asp?A=167794934E65415.

We encourage all who are interested in ice climbing to take a few moments to complete the simple survey even if you have not visited Hyalite. No sign up or registration is required and your responses protected by secure encryption. The data will provide extremely useful, if not necessary, information to present our situation to the Forest Service regarding the adopted Gallatin National Forest Travel Plan.

2. Write a letter to the Editor of the Bozeman Daily Chronicle

The Bozeman Daily Chronicle has already published a number of letters from local and non-local climbers that has had an amazing effect on local politicians. Ice climbers now have at least one city and one county commissioner attending meetings. A well constructed, short letter to the Bozeman Daily Chronicle (citydesk@dailychronicle.com) urging Supervisor Heath to reconsider her decision to gate Hyalite Road and open 3 miles of road for winter access that will save over 140 ice climbs, from the climbers across the country will be useful in applying local political pressure.

3. Stay informed

For more information, recent discussions and updates go to http://www.montanaice.com/forums.

Background information:

This final plan, entitled 7M, is the culmination of more than four years of discussion, public comment periods, private meetings, letters to the editor, and ongoing debates and arguments among user groups.

7M designates the road beyond the gate for "family oriented cross-country skiing," and leaves ice climbers with two choices for access after December 31: a lengthy backcountry ski, or a circuitous, ungroomed, remote snowmobile route that experienced, local sled-heads call “advanced and difficult riding.”

The Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition (SMCC), the Access Fund, First Ascent Press and many other concerned individuals and businesses are currently working hard to explore the options to protect this climbing access.

These groups may need to launch an administrative appeal to the Forest Service, and need more statistics on ice climbing use in Hyalite Canyon. The more climbers take the survey, the more accurate and effective the data will be.

San Diego Action Alert, CA

Cleveland National Forest Proposed Closures

Your Comments Needed By January 31^st

Proposed Seasonal Closures Effect Climbing Opportunities in the Cleveland National Forest including Climbing at Corte Madera, Rock Mountain and Eagle Peak.

The Cleveland National Forest announced proposed seasonal closures to protect Golden Eagles, Prairie Falcons, as well as other cliff-nesting species. The proposed closures would be in effect from December 1 – May 30 and would include the popular climbing area Corte Madera Mountain.

Your voice and comments are needed now to minimize or eliminate these restrictions at some of San Diego’s most valuable winter climbing areas. The information can be found at: http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/cleveland/news/2007/01/seasonal-closure.shtml and http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/cleveland/projects/projects/seasonal-closures/index.shtml

Here are some points you may wish to include in your comments:

State why climbing at these areas is important to you.
The closure of public land by federal land management agencies is an extreme measure, and should only be initiated through clear legal authority and documented scientific need
Such broad seasonal closures are not necessary, especially since there is no evidence that recreational users are impacting the raptors.
Neither the Golden Eagle or Prairie Falcon is listed species under the Endangered Species Act.
The Golden Eagle is a Bird Species of Special Concern in California (California Department of Fish and Game); any closures to protect the Golden Eagle should be scientifically based and well-monitored.
The Prairie Falcon is not a federally or California listed Endangered or Threatened Species and has no special U.S. Forest Service protection. In fact, according to the Peregrine Fund, the Prairie Falcon is categorized as a species of "Least Concern" by BirdLife International.
The USFS states, the “San Diego County (Prairie Falcon) population appears to be stable (Unit 2004)” prior to the proposed action; there were no climbing restrictions when this assessment was made. Therefore there is no proof that recreational climbing has had any negative effect on the Prairie Falcons.
The Cleveland National Forest does not indicate which raptor species are present in the proposed area closures, the presence of raptor nests, nor gives any indication that consistent monitoring of fledging success has been performed and recorded. Not enough information is known to make a scientific evaluation of rock climbing’s impact on the success or decline of the raptors.
There is no know precedence of invoking the Migratory Bird Treaty Act (MBTA) Cleveland National Forest Management Plan as the legal authority for the closure of public lands to protect raptor habitat.
The Migratory Bird Treaty Act (MBTA) is a criminal environmental statute, whose original intent was to put an end to the commercial trade in bird, not to prohibit recreational activity, and that applies to populations not individuals.
Because the definition of “take” in the MBTA does not include “harm” or “harass,” as does the Endangered Species Act, nor does the MBTA or its regulations make any mention of habitat modification, the application of the MBTA to habitat destruction or other indirect take is unclear, and should therefore not be the basis for a closure.
Part 3 Standard 18 of Cleveland National Forest Land Management Plan (USDS Forest Service 2005) is not the appropriate standard to serve as legal authority because Part 3, Standard 18 relates to Heading “Fish and Wildlife Standards,” Subheading, “When Implementing All Activities.” Standard 18 relates to proposed USFS activities, not existing recreational activities. Standard 34 “When Implementing Recreation Activities” is the correct legal authority. Standard 34 applies only where a “threatened, endangered, proposed, candidate, or sensitive species” occurs in a proposed recreation area. The Prairie Falcon is none of these.
Cleveland National Forest Land Management Plan Appendix D states that management actions are to be implemented in the order of: education; perimeter control; management presence; redirection of use – if appropriate) unless analysis of the conflict clearly indicates that a stronger measure is immediately necessary. These proposed closures bypassed education, perimeter control, and management presence without a showing that stronger measures were immediately necessary.
Any closures for which there is legal authority should be implemented only if nests are observed and should be limited to a reasonable 330-foot buffer. This compromise would allow recreation to continue while the USFS can monitor and better determine fledging success rates.
Your respect to the wilderness and commitment to access and conservation
Your willingness to help with monitoring
Contact info (include name and email)

Your comments may be sent through the mail to the following address:
Kirsten Winter

Cleveland National Forest

10845 Rancho Bernardo Rd #200

San Diego, CA 92127

or via email to:
kwinter@fs.fed.us

Governor Stable Closure, PA

Since initiating the recreational lease of the Governor Stable property, the Pennsylvania Alliance of Climbers has been acutely aware that we were entering into a temporary, year-by-year arrangement with the landowner in order to allow climbing access. Due to concerns of the landowner, he has chosen not to renew the lease upon its expiration.

Citing concerns of impact to the deer population and the general environment of the property as a result of the increasing number of climbers visiting the boulders, the landowner feels that ending the lease is in the best interest of his family and their property.

While all of us at the Pennsylvania Alliance of Climbers are disappointed by this development, we support the landowner's decision. As a result, there will be no Governor Stable Bouldering Competition in 2007, and access to the boulders will cease on March 1, 2007.

While it is a loss to the climbing community to no longer have access to GS, we must remember the five successful years that we have worked with the landowner to promote the climbing there. We extend our deepest gratitude to the owners of Governor Stable for the time that they have given us to enjoy their wonderful property.

The Pennsylvania Alliance of Climbers will continue to stay in contact with the Governor Stable landowner in the event that his family's wishes change in the future.

Any questions should be directed to info@paclimbers.org.

Farley Ledge, MA

By Jeff Squire, Access Fund Regional Coordinator & President WMCC

The Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition has signed a Purchase & Sale Agreement for 9-acres of land at the base of Farley Ledge. Located in Erving, MA, Farley Ledge represents some of the best climbing and bouldering in southern New England between Rumney and the Gunks.

This purchase will allow the WMCC to restrict non-climbing related development at the base of the crag and construct a sustainable and permanent parking area. The new parking area and trailhead will replace the existing small lot now located at the end of a busy residential neighborhood.

The WMCC’s acquisition of this property is closely aligned with state protection efforts as the entire Farley Ledge area is designated as Core Habitat Area according to MA Wildlife. Additionally, the town’s Open Space & Recreation Plan identifies Farley not only as a valuable habitat area, but also as an important outdoor recreational resource. Farley’s unspoiled setting, its link to a multi-state trail system, and its climbing potential help make this project the epitome of land preservation.

The closing date is scheduled for May 1^st by which we need to raise an additional $45,000 to finalize the deal. Several fundraisers are planned for the upcoming months including a Silent Auction, our annual Winter Thaw, and a visit from Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell in early March. While the local community has been motivated to make this happen raising over $16,000 over the last 2 months, we still need everyone’s help. For more information, to donate or to arrange a tour of some damn good rock, check our website (www.westernmacc.com).

Off-trail Permits For Climbing In Boulder, CO

By Tom Isaacson, President Flatirons Climbers Coalition

Effective February 1, 2007, climbers will need a permit to reach certain boulders and crags with the City of Boulder's Open Space. The effected areas are: Cryptic Crag, Adam's Spire, all of the Metaphysical boulders, and certain boulders west of the Sacred Cliffs.

Other restrictions will also apply to climbers. To get more information visit www.FlatironsClimbing.com or www.openspace.ci.boulder.co.us.

Applications for off-trail permits, which are good for one day, may be obtained through the above open space website or at the Chautauqua Ranger Cottage. Further details on the rules will become available soon, as will possible changes to the areas requiring a permit. Please cooperate with this program and encourage others to do so.

The permits are free. Getting caught without one is a $100 per person fine. Also, it is important to show the land managers that climbers will observe the existing rules and that harsher rules are not needed. Additional rules also apply to hiking to non-climbing destinations and walking with your dog off-trail. You can post questions on the Flatirons Climbing website.

Cave Rock Update, NV

Cave Rock Lawsuit Scheduled for Oral Arguments at the 9th Circuit Court of Appeals

After waiting 1 ½ years, the 9th Circuit Court of Appeals recently announced that the court will hear oral arguments in the Access Fund lawsuit that seeks to reopen climbing at Cave Rock, a popular and important climbing area on the shore of Lake Tahoe in Nevada.

On February 15 in San Francisco the 9th Circuit Court of Appeals will hear 20 minute oral arguments each from the Access Fund and attorneys representing the US Forest Service. Stay tuned for any additional announcements.

In the meantime, the Cave Rock climbing ban remains in place, and it is critical that climbers continue to respect the climbing closure while we work our way through the courts. Violating the climbing closure will only harm our case in court and reduce the chances of climbing at Cave Rock in the future.

For more information see past Access Fund E-news and www.accessfund.org/pdf/CRbackgrounder3-28.pdf or contact Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith at Jason@accessfund.org.

Nelson Rocks, WV

By Thomson Ling, AF Regional Coordinator

For those in the DC area interested in the discussing the recent real estate listing of Nelson Rocks, WV please attend a meeting from 5-7pm on Saturday, January 27th.