E-News 82
August 2007
THE BETA
ACTION ALERTS
Yosemite National
Park Asks for Additional Public Comment on Tuolumne Plans
Lost Horse Canyon Comments
Needed
The
Access Fund Announces New Executive Director
New Land Exchange Proposal
Introduced Into Congress for Oak Flat, AZ
AREA UPDATES
Gunks Climbers Sign MOU
with Mohonk Preserve
Cleveland National
Forest Access Threat Update, CA
AF NEWS
Access Fund Awards 100% of Applicants in 2nd 2007
Climbing Preservation Grant Round
Write a Gear Review and Support
the Access Fund
ItÕs in the BagÉor at
Least It Should Be
EVENTS
Vertical Times 77 is Now
Online!
If you have ever climbed in Tuolumne Meadows, the
National Park Service wants your input. How do you envision Tuolumne in the
future? Do you want more camping? Less camping? A larger store? No store? Cars?
Shuttles? What about climbing opportunities and access?
Yosemite National Park (YNP) will answer these
questions-with your assistance-through the Tuolumne Wild and Scenic River Plan
and Tuolumne Meadows Plan which will together guide the future management of
uses in the river corridor and services and restoration at Tuolumne Meadows.
Last summer Yosemite National Park opened these
plans for initial public comment. For the Access Fund's Scoping Comments to
Tuolumne Wild and Scenic River Comprehensive Management Plan/Tuolumne Meadows
Plan, see www.accessfund.org/pdf/AFScopComTuo.pdf
Now, YNP is asking for addition public input while developing the alternative
concept for the Tuolumne Plans.
Yosemite National Park will accept your
Tuolumne comments through September 15th at:
Yosemite Planning
Yosemite National Park
P.O. Box 577
Yosemite, CA 95389
yose_planning@nps.gov
To assist the public in formulating planning
concepts and issues, YNP has developed a workbook where you can find summaries
of all the work accomplished to date. Climbers have a once-in-a-lifetime
opportunity to make their voices heard in the future of Tuolumne, review this
information and to share your comments and ideas with YNP as everything is
still subject to revision. Check out the workbook at www.nps.gov/archive/yose/planning/trp/workbook-web.pdf and review this effective and convenient online
resource.
Also see the NPS website www.nps.gov/archive/yose/planning/trp/
where you can review additional details and planning timeless. For more
information, send an email to yose_planning@nps.gov or contact project manager
Kristina Rylands at (209) 379-1175.
By Steve Porcella,
Regional Coordinator
The fight to save
climbing at Lost Horse Crag near Darby Montana remains unresolved. Comments from the climbing community
and all recreational and interested parties are URGENTLY NEEDED TO SAVE LOST
HORSE CRAG! The immediate need is to urge Commissioner Driscoll to vote against
the quarry; her vote is expected at the end of August.
Kathleen Driscoll
Ravalli County
Commissioner
C/o Glenda Wiles,
Administrative Assistant
Ravalli County
Commissioners Office
215 S. 4th Street, Suite
A
Hamilton, MT 59840
commissioners@ravallicounty.mt.gov
Background: The
Bitterroot National Forest and Ravalli County put together a proposal to begin
mining operations for the removal of 125,000 to 150,000 cubic yards of hard
rock for 10 years or more in Lost Horse Canyon. The plan would effectively
close Lost Horse Canyon to all climbing activity during the mining operations,
stated to be October to April, which are the best months to climb there. For
background info and updates, see the Bitterroot Climbers CoalitionÕs website: http://bitterrootclimbers.org.
There are two issues:
first is with the County Commissioners to not allow its Road Department to mine
in Lost Horse Canyon. The County Commissioners are deadlocked in a vote at this
time on the issue, with two in favor of the mining operation, two against it,
and Kathleen Driscoll on the fence (abstaining her vote) until she gets more
economic data from the Road Department. The USFSÕs public comment period ended
July 31st, 2007 www.accessfund.org/pdf/losthorse.pdf but the BCC is telling everyone to continue
writing letters to Commissioner Driscoll urging her to vote against the quarry
mining operation (see letter writing info below).
Lost Horse especially
needs letters to Driscoll from people who have not yet written the USFS in
order to show a broad range of support. If Driscoll votes against the Road
Department's use, the Forest Service has said they will put up the quarry for
open bid. This is our second big concern: to block the Forest Service from
promoting this outstanding natural and recreational resource as a quarry.
A large number of
letters from climbers and users is CRITICAL, so forward this to your climbing
partners and friends! Go to http://bitterrootclimbers.org
and http://firstascentpress.com/losthorse.html for updates and details on letter writing. For
more information, email: steve@bitterrootclimbers.org.
Organize an Adopt-a-Crag! Volunteer for an
Adopt-a-Crag in your area. Take Action Today.
There is still time to sign up to
organize an Adopt-a-Crag or to join a scheduled Adopt-a-Crag event in your
area.
Our goal is to
support 130 Adopt-a-Crags around the country. Last year, the climbing community hosted an
amazing 120 events. Following on
the success of a banner year, we set our sights on 130 events. To date we have 74 events. We are fast approaching our goal, but we cannot
do it without you! If you have
ever thought about organizing an Adopt-a-Crag for your favorite climbing area,
NOW IS THE TIME!
Adopt-a-Crag
is an excellent an avenue for building alliances and partnerships and to plan
for the future. Be it a crag clean-up of 8 volunteers
or a fundraiser, comp, and trail work day with 100 volunteers Adopt-a-Crag is
about giving back to those places we love and use on a regular basis
Adopt-a-Crag inspires activism, advocacy, volunteerism, and stewardship. In the
eight years since the inception of Adopt-a-Crag, climbers around the country
have built and restored thousands of miles of trails, hauled tons of trash, and
completed thousands of conservation initiatives.
Centered on community and stewardship,
Adopt-a-Crag reaches beyond the sum of its parts. In addition to bringing local
climbing communities together and conserving our climbing environments,
Adopt-a-Crag also serves to teach stewardship-by-example to the younger
generation, improve relations with land managers and owners, strengthen the
reputation of the local and national climbing community, and increase our
autonomy as a self-governing user group.
Adopt-a-Crag is one of our most powerful advocacy tools because it gives
decision makers firm numbers of how climbers take care of the places we play.
Help us reach our goal of 130 events and register
your Adopt-a-Crag event today. Trash clean up? Trail maintenance? Hardware
replacement or climber signage? Invite the local community out to celebrate
their crag!
As in the past, you can get all your Adopt-a-Crag
information and register online at www.accessfund.org/adopt
or contact Charlie Boas at 303-545-6772 x105, charlie@accessfund.org.
To register an event or find one in your area
visit:
The
Access Fund is pleased to announce the hire of Brady Robinson as the new
Executive Director.
RobinsonÕs
20-year climbing career spans the spectrum from dirtbag climber to professional
climber, writer, and photographer. He also has a decade of nonprofit management
experience with Outward Bound. Starting September 1, he will assume his new
role as Executive Director of the only national climbersÕ advocacy
organization, the Access Fund.
ÒBradyÕs
background is an ideal fit for what the Access Fund needs in a leader; he is
first and foremost a climber but he knows how to run a business and build a
strong team. The staff and Board are confident that Brady has what it takes to
move the organization towards our vision,Ó says Dan Nordstrom, Access Fund
Board President. He continues, ÒBrady has climbed it all––from
alpine granite to sandstone boulders–– and now heÕs going to work
to keep it all open.Ó
Brady will
be joining the Access Fund fulltime at the Boulder Office beginning September
1st and can be reached at brady@accessfund.org, 303.545.6772 x101.
In early August two
bills were introduced into Congress that would transfer Oak Flat—US
Forest Service land east of Superior, Arizona—to Resolution Copper
Company to develop a massive copper mine. The result of this land exchange
would result in the loss of thousands of bouldering problems and roped sport
climbs at the popular Oak Flat area. This issue is of longstanding importance
to the Access Fund as it would result in the single largest loss of climbing
resources ever. For more background, see the Friends of Queen CreekÕs website
at www.friendsofqueencreek.com and www.accessfund.org/saveoakflat
The proposed law,
introduced by US Senators Kyl and McCain in the Senate and US Representative
Pastor in the House, now faces scrutiny by the relevant congressional
committees that oversee public lands and federal land exchanges. At issue for
climbers in the proposed ÒSoutheast Arizona Land Exchange and Conservation Act
of 2007Ó are the following provisions:
This land exchange must
now overcome renewed opposition by local Apaches and citizens groups www.eastvalleytribune.com/story/93851 a new Congress generally more critical of land
exchanges. The Access Fund will continue to work with Congress to ensure that
the interests of climbers are represented in this proposed law.
For more information
about the licensed climbing in Queen Creek Canyon and whatÕs at stake for Oak
Flat, contact jason@accessfund.org.
On August 13, following
more than two years of presentations, meetings, and negotiations (with tons of
assistance from the AF), the Gunks ClimberÕs Coalition (GCC) and Mohonk
Preserve signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) for the Rosendale
Waterworks bouldering parcel.
The signing marks a
significant step though several remain before access to the parcel can be
realized. Jeff Powell, one of two boulderers who discovered the site, has
volunteered for the WaterworksÕ liaison position outlined in the MOU.
The GCC is also pleased
to announce that our Adopt-A-Crag date this year will take place on Saturday,
September 15, with a litter clean-up at Skytop. The historic crag saw a
partial reopening this year by the Mohonk Mountain House to guided climbing of
hotel guests.
By Jeff Brown,
Executive Director Allied Climbers of San Diego
A proposal by the
Cleveland National Forest (CNF) would deny well-established recreational
climbing in order to create nesting habitat for non-threatened eagles and
prairie falcons. These speculative preserves would be established where no
golden eagles nest within close proximity or view of climbing activities, and
where prairie falcons continue to nest successfully.
The Allied Climbers of
San Diego (ACSD), in concert with the Access Fund, are working to preserve
climbing access and work with the CNF on a reasonable solution. For more
background on this issue see www.alliedclimbers.org/. ACSDÕs formal statement of complaint can be
found here: www.alliedclimbers.org/pdf/FSoC.pdf and Access Fund comments here: www.accessfund.org/pdf/USFS_MBTA.pdf and www.alliedclimbers.org/pdf/AF_LETTER.pdf
The ACSD invites all
climbers to follow this important access threat created by the CNFÕs climbing
closure proposals by visiting ACSDÕs website to access a timeline of the CNFÕs
proposals and to understand why these measures are being opposed by the Access
Fund and ACSD in their current form. In early September the CNF will release an
Environmental Assessment for public review and comment. This is a National
Forest issue with national precedent-setting potential, so please stay tuned
for the Access Fund's and ACSD's evaluation of this anxiously awaited document.
By Bill Strachan,
Executive Director Red River Gorge ClimbersÕ Coalition
With the 2007 mortgage payment for the
Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) out of the way, the Red River
Gorge ClimbersÕ Coalition has been preparing for two major events coming up
this fall, the Mountain Gear UCLIMB being held the weekend of September 15
& 16 and the Petzl Roc Trip at Rocktoberfest being held the weekend of
October 12-14.
In other
news, the Military
Wall Cliffline Protection and Restoration Project was removed from
consideration for its 2008 budget due to the transfer of the staff person
preparing the environmental assessment. Due to transfers and retirements the
Daniel Boone National Forest, many Districts are severely understaffed,
especially the Redbird District, this position may not be filled immediately,
however the USFS has indicated that may pick the project back up once it has
adequate staffing.
The Access
Fund continues its support of grassroots climbing advocacy and conservation
projects by awarding 100% of the applicants in its second Climbing Preservation
Grants cycle of 2007 for trail improvements, clean-up supplies, and Affiliate
educational initiatives. Presented three times annually, these grants provide
financial assistance for local climber activism and protection of the climbing
environment in the United States.
The
following grants were awarded this round:
ElyÕs Peak Climbers
Parking Lot, Trail & Kiosk, Duluth, MN
A grant
was awarded to Access Fund Affiliate, Minnesota Climbers Association, for an
access trail, parking lot, and kiosk construction at ElyÕs Peak. A local Duluth
crag, ElyÕs Peak, has been a regional climbing destination for over 30 years.
The new trail and parking lot will provide great access to the crags and cut
the approach time in half. The kiosk will provide information about the natural
and cultural history of the area and about minimum impact practices for
climbers.
Yosemite Facelift 2007,
CA
Access
Fund Affiliate, Yosemite Climbers Association was awarded a grant to purchase
materials for its fourth annual Yosemite Facelift September 26th-September 30th
, 2007. This highly successful cleanup has doubled in size every year and has
become the largest Adopt-a-Crag in the country. Last yearÕs cleanup had 1,157
volunteers that gathered over 25,000 pounds of trash. Climbers worked alongside
other Park user groups creating friendships and respect outside the climbing
community. The National Park Service recognized the event by awarding Ken Yager
the prestigious Yosemite Award for his efforts in organizing the Facelift. Ken
was also awarded the Access Fund Bebie Leadership Award for his work.
The Access FundÕs new Associate Programs
Director
Originally from New England, Charlie grew up exploring the White Mountains of New Hampshire
skiing and hiking, and when
college came around he headed
West. CharlieÕs first rock climbing experience was in 1994 as a freshman attending CU, when his roommates
took him into the Eldorado
Canyon. After graduating in 1998,
CharlieÕs wandering around the West lead him to Crested Butte, Steamboat, Northern California,
but always returning to Boulder.
He has climbed in an array of destinations from Fontainebleau to Indian Creek
to Tankawa Falls, TX.
He was most recently the Facility Manager and
Head Routesetter of the Boulder Rock Club (where he first learned to belay over
a decade ago), is a board member for Action Committee for Eldorado, an Access
Fund Affiliate.
Charlie heads up the Affiliate and Regional
Coordinator Program, the Community Partner Program and Adopt-a-Crag, and the
boulderProject for the Access Fund. He can be reached at charlie@accessfund.org or 303-545-6772 x105.
Outdoor gear
guide and Access Fund Corporate Partner Trailspace.com will donate $10 to the Access Fund
for each climbing gear review posted on its site by an Access Fund member
between now and September 30.
Just visit www.trailspace.com/access-fund to submit a user review of your
favorite (or least favorite) rope, shoes, harness, cam, biner, ice tool, or
other climbing gear. Trailspace will donate $10 to the Access Fund for each
review, up to $1,000, and you'll be supporting the Access Fund while helping
other climbers choose the right gear.
Visit www.trailspace.com/access-fund today to submit your gear
review and for more details.
ItÕs Easy: Know a climber whoÕs not a member? Get them to join and receive
free stuff. The more people you get to join, the more free stuff you get!
Every time your name is entered as a referrer, you are entered into a contest
to win a rope.
PLUS
á
REFER
TWO FRIENDS and
receive a Nalgene Flask.
á
REFER
FOUR FRIENDS and
receive a Nalgene Flask and a dri-release wool T-shirt from Outdoor Research.
á
REFER
SIX FRIENDS and
receive a Nalgene Flask, a dri-release wool T-shirt from Outdoor Research, and
a North Face merino wool beanie cap.
PLUS
The two top referrers will receive a bonus gift package worth
over $150.
REFER your friends by sending them to this NEW link:
á
If they
become a member, they are also entered into a contest to win a free rope.
á
They
must enter your name in the ÒReferred byÓ box on the join form in order for
their membership to count towards your total tally.
á
Awards
will be sent on a monthly basis as your referrals accumulate.
á
Program
will reset January 1.
á
The
Access Fund reserves the right to substitute any gift based on availability.
25% off from Access
Fund Corporate Partner RESTOP.
The Access Fund has been
talking for a while about human waste containment systems and encouraging
climbers to use these poop bags when in the wilderness. With a successful
distribution pilot program in Indian Creek, land managers are taking notice
that climbers are proactive about their impacts.
The Access Fund
maintains that human waste containment bags should be in every climberÕs pack
or pad. ThereÕs no reason to dig a scat hole and stink the place up. Poop bags
keep our crags clean and land managers happy.
It may be difficult to
get yourself to actually go out and buy a human waste containment system so
hereÕs an incentive to get your crap together: 25% off from Access Fund
Corporate Partner RESTOP.
www.accessfund.org/secure/store.php
YouÕll need your membership number to login to the memberSHOP and then click on
the RESTOP logo.
The Access Fund has achieved Charity NavigatorÕs
(the countryÕs premier charity evaluator) highest rating of 4 stars. Less than
a quarter of the countryÕs charity organizations have received this highest
rating.
This ÒexceptionalÓ designation indicates that the
Access Fund outperforms the majority of nonprofits in America with respect to
fiscal responsibility. We put your money to work, doing what you want it to do:
keep climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment.
Members—thanks for your continued support!
EVENTS
Make any event an Access Fund fundraiser and/or member drive.
ItÕs so easy—register your event online and weÕll set you up with
everything you need! www.accessfund.org/events/eventreg.php
Also, register your crag clean-ups as an Adopt-a-Crag to
strengthen our communal efforts. Adopt-a-Crag is the largest climber volunteer
effort year after year and land managers notice. Be a part of it! www.accessfund.org/cons/aac.php
**A big thanks to these recent Access Fund Fundraisers that
went the extra mile bringing in tremendous money and members helping to keep
your climbing areas open and conserve your climbing environment!
Twice a year the Access Fund staff packs up their dirtbag-mobiles
and head to Salt Lake City for the Outdoor Retail Tradeshow. Last weekÕs summer
show was hands down the best tradeshow the AF has ever attended. This was due
to the huge support of our Corporate Partners and the love and money flowing
for the Access Fund.
Special thanks to:
Outdoor Retailer for donating a booth space front and center in the Climbing Zone.
The North Face for once again donating couches for the AF booth. They make us
look good even on a budget.
Momentum Media Public Relations, the Access FundÕs PR agency, for
including the AF and raising funds in their glammed out press event as well as
for organizing the Dirtbag Challenges.
Rock & Ice for helping with the Dirtbag Challenges where Beaver (the
president and founder of Prana) showed Peter Metcalf (president of Black
Diamond) how to properly climb up a bouldering wall with a haul stuffed with
Old English malt liquor (who knew OE came in cans?), chuck Clif Bars into a
Restop Comode across the way (the crap toss), and build a better beer can tower
(again OE in a can). In the second round of challenges, AF Athlete Ambassadors
Angie Payne firmly defeated Chris Lindner. Rematch next year?
La Sportiva for contributing the proceeds from their Beer:30 happy hour to
the AF complete with keepsake AF/Sportiva pint glasses.
The Reel Rock Tour, Gore-Tex Products, and Skram Media for donating proceeds from the world
premier of King Lines starring AF Ambassador Chris Sharma. A packed house had
the money flowing.
Scarpa
and Urban Climber Magazine for organizing and hosting a silent art auction that benefited
the Access Fund. Amazing art from Access Fund athletes and partners was
auctioned to the highest bidder and itÕs rumored that American Alpine Club
president Jim Donini paid $60 for a pair of pink and orange tube socks he
bought off an AF staffer (if anyone has a picture of Jim in the tubeÕs please
send it to the AF and weÕll feature it in upcoming publications).
08/25
Mt. Evans, CO. Dude-Where's My
Stash? Clean-Up, Meet at Echo Lake Parking Lot at 10:30 am, Amy Carden,
08/25
Fayetteville, WV. The New River
Gorge Adopt-a-Crag hosted by the New River Alliance of Climbers. Elaina Smith, Elaina@newriverclimbing.com
09/08 The
Obed, Knoxville, TN. 8th Annual
Adopt-a-Crag at The Obed hosted by the East Tennessee Climbers Coalition. 9am.
Rick Bost, rickbost@aol.com
09/08 Rocky
Mountain National Park, CO.
Dude-Where's My Stash? Clean Up. Meet at Bear Lake Parking Lot at 10:30 am, Amy
Carden, a1moose@comcast.net
09/08
Castlewood Canyon State Park, CO.
Castlewood Canyon State Park Adopt-a-Crag host by REI. 8am-1pm, breakfast &
lunch provided. Joshua Fox, Jfox@rei.com
09/08
Sandrock, AL. The Sandrock
Adopt-a-Crag hosted by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition. 9:30am CST. John
Connell, jconnell@coosahs.net
09/13—09/16
Salt Lake City, UT. HERA Ovarian
Cancer Climb4Life www.herafoundation.org
09/15—09/16
Pocatello, Ross Park Climbing Area, ID. Pocatello Pump
09/21—09/23
Smith Rock State Park, OR. Smith
Rock Detour www.smithrockdetour07.com
10/12—10/14 Red
River Gorge, Slade, KY. Petzl
Roc Trip presents Rocktoberfest!
Get
member only discounts on all the new stuff in the Access Fund MemberSHOP! www.accessfund.org/membershop
100%
Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Those old T-shirts you've been wearing have more
perforations than Swiss cheese at City of Rocks. By purchasing our T, you can
rebel against corporate dress codes and battle for climbers' rights at the same
time. Artwork by Jeremy Collins. Sizes S, M, L, XL. $20 non members/$18 member price NOW IN STOCK!
100%
Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Designed for a comfortable fit and ideal
for steep sport climbs, bold runouts or just hanging out. Artwork by Jeremy Collins. Size S
only (M & L currently out of stock). $20 non members/$18 member price
Discounts on RESTOP Waste
Bags
Does a bear
S#!@t in the woods? Yes,
but we should pack ours out. Access Fund members receive 25% off RESTOP bag
systems for human waste and other products.
Higher Ground Coffee
Access Fund Blend Ten Percent of proceeds fund preservation and maintenance
of our climbing areas.
Did you know
that Access Fund members receive free shipping on web orders from Mountain
Gear? You must access the Mountain Gear site through the AF MemberSHOP after you login.
Buy
a CLIF Bar Cool Tag Renewable wind energy credit keeps about 300 lbs of CO2 out of the
air and helps the Rosebud Sioux Tribe build a wind farm in South Dakota
Cruise
to the AF website and play ASANA PackWorks' video game Gunther's Big Day www.accessfund.com/extras/game.php Click through to ASANA's site to purchase the
full version. $10 from each purchase made through this link will be donated to
the AF. Go Gunther! Thanks ASANA!
AF
Ambassador Timmy OÕNeil Òtakes care of businessÓ in Indian Creek www.accessfund.org/extras/tic.php
Access
Fund Ambassador Chris Sharma sending a first ascent in the boulderProject promo
spot at www.accessfund.org/extras/promo.php
Please check
out the August Issue of the Vertical Times at