E-News 82

August 2007

 

 

THE BETA

ACTION ALERTS

Yosemite National Park Asks for Additional Public Comment on Tuolumne Plans

Lost Horse Canyon Comments Needed

8th Annual Adopt-a-Crag 2007

NATIONAL NEWS

The Access Fund Announces New Executive Director

New Land Exchange Proposal Introduced Into Congress for Oak Flat, AZ

AREA UPDATES

Gunks Climbers Sign MOU with Mohonk Preserve

Cleveland National Forest Access Threat Update, CA

Red River Gorge, KY Update

AF NEWS

Access Fund Awards 100% of Applicants in 2nd 2007 Climbing Preservation Grant Round

Meet Charlie Boas

Write a Gear Review and Support the Access Fund

Refer-a-Friend

ItÕs in the BagÉor at Least It Should Be

Access Fund—4 Star Rating

EVENTS

Events Calendar

MEMBER BENEFITS

New Men's T-shirts

New Women's T-shirts

Pass It On!

AF Extras

Vertical Times 77 is Now Online!

Combined Federal Campaign

 

 

 

ACTION ALERTS

 

Yosemite National Park Asks for Additional Public Comment on Tuolumne Plans

 

If you have ever climbed in Tuolumne Meadows, the National Park Service wants your input. How do you envision Tuolumne in the future? Do you want more camping? Less camping? A larger store? No store? Cars? Shuttles? What about climbing opportunities and access?

 

Yosemite National Park (YNP) will answer these questions-with your assistance-through the Tuolumne Wild and Scenic River Plan and Tuolumne Meadows Plan which will together guide the future management of uses in the river corridor and services and restoration at Tuolumne Meadows.

 

Last summer Yosemite National Park opened these plans for initial public comment. For the Access Fund's Scoping Comments to Tuolumne Wild and Scenic River Comprehensive Management Plan/Tuolumne Meadows Plan, see www.accessfund.org/pdf/AFScopComTuo.pdf Now, YNP is asking for addition public input while developing the alternative concept for the Tuolumne Plans.

 

Yosemite National Park will accept your Tuolumne comments through September 15th at:

 

Yosemite Planning

Yosemite National Park

P.O. Box 577

Yosemite, CA 95389

yose_planning@nps.gov

 

To assist the public in formulating planning concepts and issues, YNP has developed a workbook where you can find summaries of all the work accomplished to date. Climbers have a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to make their voices heard in the future of Tuolumne, review this information and to share your comments and ideas with YNP as everything is still subject to revision. Check out the workbook at www.nps.gov/archive/yose/planning/trp/workbook-web.pdf and review this effective and convenient online resource.

 

Also see the NPS website www.nps.gov/archive/yose/planning/trp/ where you can review additional details and planning timeless. For more information, send an email to yose_planning@nps.gov or contact project manager Kristina Rylands at (209) 379-1175.

 

 

Lost Horse Canyon Comments Needed

By Steve Porcella, Regional Coordinator

 

The fight to save climbing at Lost Horse Crag near Darby Montana remains unresolved.  Comments from the climbing community and all recreational and interested parties are URGENTLY NEEDED TO SAVE LOST HORSE CRAG! The immediate need is to urge Commissioner Driscoll to vote against the quarry; her vote is expected at the end of August.

 

Kathleen Driscoll

Ravalli County Commissioner

C/o Glenda Wiles, Administrative Assistant

Ravalli County Commissioners Office

215 S. 4th Street, Suite A

Hamilton, MT 59840

commissioners@ravallicounty.mt.gov

 

Background: The Bitterroot National Forest and Ravalli County put together a proposal to begin mining operations for the removal of 125,000 to 150,000 cubic yards of hard rock for 10 years or more in Lost Horse Canyon. The plan would effectively close Lost Horse Canyon to all climbing activity during the mining operations, stated to be October to April, which are the best months to climb there. For background info and updates, see the Bitterroot Climbers CoalitionÕs website: http://bitterrootclimbers.org.

 

There are two issues: first is with the County Commissioners to not allow its Road Department to mine in Lost Horse Canyon. The County Commissioners are deadlocked in a vote at this time on the issue, with two in favor of the mining operation, two against it, and Kathleen Driscoll on the fence (abstaining her vote) until she gets more economic data from the Road Department. The USFSÕs public comment period ended July 31st, 2007 www.accessfund.org/pdf/losthorse.pdf but the BCC is telling everyone to continue writing letters to Commissioner Driscoll urging her to vote against the quarry mining operation (see letter writing info below). 

 

Lost Horse especially needs letters to Driscoll from people who have not yet written the USFS in order to show a broad range of support. If Driscoll votes against the Road Department's use, the Forest Service has said they will put up the quarry for open bid. This is our second big concern: to block the Forest Service from promoting this outstanding natural and recreational resource as a quarry. 

 

A large number of letters from climbers and users is CRITICAL, so forward this to your climbing partners and friends! Go to http://bitterrootclimbers.org and http://firstascentpress.com/losthorse.html for updates and details on letter writing. For more information, email: steve@bitterrootclimbers.org.

 

 

8th Annual Adopt-a-Crag 2007

Still Time to Organize an Adopt-A-Crag

 

Organize an Adopt-a-Crag! Volunteer for an Adopt-a-Crag in your area. Take Action Today.


There is still time to sign up to organize an Adopt-a-Crag or to join a scheduled Adopt-a-Crag event in your area. 

 

Our goal is to support 130 Adopt-a-Crags around the country. Last year, the climbing community hosted an amazing 120 events.  Following on the success of a banner year, we set our sights on 130 events.  To date we have 74 events. We are fast approaching our goal, but we cannot do it without you!  If you have ever thought about organizing an Adopt-a-Crag for your favorite climbing area, NOW IS THE TIME!

 

Adopt-a-Crag is an excellent an avenue for building alliances and partnerships and to plan for the future.  Be it a crag clean-up of 8 volunteers or a fundraiser, comp, and trail work day with 100 volunteers Adopt-a-Crag is about giving back to those places we love and use on a regular basis Adopt-a-Crag inspires activism, advocacy, volunteerism, and stewardship. In the eight years since the inception of Adopt-a-Crag, climbers around the country have built and restored thousands of miles of trails, hauled tons of trash, and completed thousands of conservation initiatives.  

 

Centered on community and stewardship, Adopt-a-Crag reaches beyond the sum of its parts. In addition to bringing local climbing communities together and conserving our climbing environments, Adopt-a-Crag also serves to teach stewardship-by-example to the younger generation, improve relations with land managers and owners, strengthen the reputation of the local and national climbing community, and increase our autonomy as a self-governing user group.  Adopt-a-Crag is one of our most powerful advocacy tools because it gives decision makers firm numbers of how climbers take care of the places we play.

 

Help us reach our goal of 130 events and register your Adopt-a-Crag event today. Trash clean up? Trail maintenance? Hardware replacement or climber signage? Invite the local community out to celebrate their crag!

 

As in the past, you can get all your Adopt-a-Crag information and register online at www.accessfund.org/adopt or contact Charlie Boas at 303-545-6772 x105, charlie@accessfund.org. 

 

To register an event or find one in your area visit:

www.accessfund.org/adopt

 

 

 

NATIONAL NEWS

 

 

The Access Fund Announces New Executive Director

The Access Fund is pleased to announce the hire of Brady Robinson as the new Executive Director.

RobinsonÕs 20-year climbing career spans the spectrum from dirtbag climber to professional climber, writer, and photographer. He also has a decade of nonprofit management experience with Outward Bound. Starting September 1, he will assume his new role as Executive Director of the only national climbersÕ advocacy organization, the Access Fund.

ÒBradyÕs background is an ideal fit for what the Access Fund needs in a leader; he is first and foremost a climber but he knows how to run a business and build a strong team. The staff and Board are confident that Brady has what it takes to move the organization towards our vision,Ó says Dan Nordstrom, Access Fund Board President. He continues, ÒBrady has climbed it all––from alpine granite to sandstone boulders–– and now heÕs going to work to keep it all open.Ó

Brady will be joining the Access Fund fulltime at the Boulder Office beginning September 1st and can be reached at brady@accessfund.org, 303.545.6772 x101.

 

New Land Exchange Proposal Introduced Into Congress for Oak Flat, AZ

 

In early August two bills were introduced into Congress that would transfer Oak Flat—US Forest Service land east of Superior, Arizona—to Resolution Copper Company to develop a massive copper mine. The result of this land exchange would result in the loss of thousands of bouldering problems and roped sport climbs at the popular Oak Flat area. This issue is of longstanding importance to the Access Fund as it would result in the single largest loss of climbing resources ever. For more background, see the Friends of Queen CreekÕs website at www.friendsofqueencreek.com and www.accessfund.org/saveoakflat

 

The proposed law, introduced by US Senators Kyl and McCain in the Senate and US Representative Pastor in the House, now faces scrutiny by the relevant congressional committees that oversee public lands and federal land exchanges. At issue for climbers in the proposed ÒSoutheast Arizona Land Exchange and Conservation Act of 2007Ó are the following provisions:

 

 

 

 

This land exchange must now overcome renewed opposition by local Apaches and citizens groups www.eastvalleytribune.com/story/93851 a new Congress generally more critical of land exchanges. The Access Fund will continue to work with Congress to ensure that the interests of climbers are represented in this proposed law.

 

For more information about the licensed climbing in Queen Creek Canyon and whatÕs at stake for Oak Flat, contact jason@accessfund.org.

 

 

 

AREA UPDATES

 

 

Gunks Climbers Sign MOU with Mohonk Preserve

By Christopher Spatz, Access Fund Regional Coordinator

 

On August 13, following more than two years of presentations, meetings, and negotiations (with tons of assistance from the AF), the Gunks ClimberÕs Coalition (GCC) and Mohonk Preserve signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) for the Rosendale Waterworks bouldering parcel. 

 

The signing marks a significant step though several remain before access to the parcel can be realized. Jeff Powell, one of two boulderers who discovered the site, has volunteered for the WaterworksÕ liaison position outlined in the MOU.

 

The GCC is also pleased to announce that our Adopt-A-Crag date this year will take place on Saturday, September 15, with a litter clean-up at Skytop. The historic crag saw a partial reopening this year by the Mohonk Mountain House to guided climbing of hotel guests.

 

 

Cleveland National Forest Access Threat Update, CA

By Jeff Brown, Executive Director Allied Climbers of San Diego

 

A proposal by the Cleveland National Forest (CNF) would deny well-established recreational climbing in order to create nesting habitat for non-threatened eagles and prairie falcons. These speculative preserves would be established where no golden eagles nest within close proximity or view of climbing activities, and where prairie falcons continue to nest successfully.

 

The Allied Climbers of San Diego (ACSD), in concert with the Access Fund, are working to preserve climbing access and work with the CNF on a reasonable solution. For more background on this issue see www.alliedclimbers.org/. ACSDÕs formal statement of complaint can be found here: www.alliedclimbers.org/pdf/FSoC.pdf and Access Fund comments here: www.accessfund.org/pdf/USFS_MBTA.pdf and www.alliedclimbers.org/pdf/AF_LETTER.pdf

 

The ACSD invites all climbers to follow this important access threat created by the CNFÕs climbing closure proposals by visiting ACSDÕs website to access a timeline of the CNFÕs proposals and to understand why these measures are being opposed by the Access Fund and ACSD in their current form. In early September the CNF will release an Environmental Assessment for public review and comment. This is a National Forest issue with national precedent-setting potential, so please stay tuned for the Access Fund's and ACSD's evaluation of this anxiously awaited document.

 

 

Red River Gorge, KY Update

By Bill Strachan, Executive Director Red River Gorge ClimbersÕ Coalition

 

With the 2007 mortgage payment for the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) out of the way, the Red River Gorge ClimbersÕ Coalition has been preparing for two major events coming up this fall, the Mountain Gear UCLIMB being held the weekend of September 15 & 16 and the Petzl Roc Trip at Rocktoberfest being held the weekend of October 12-14. 

 

In other news, the Military Wall Cliffline Protection and Restoration Project was removed from consideration for its 2008 budget due to the transfer of the staff person preparing the environmental assessment. Due to transfers and retirements the Daniel Boone National Forest, many Districts are severely understaffed, especially the Redbird District, this position may not be filled immediately, however the USFS has indicated that may pick the project back up once it has adequate staffing.

 

 

 

AF NEWS

 

 

Access Fund Awards 100% of Applicants in 2nd 2007 Climbing Preservation Grant Round

The Access Fund continues its support of grassroots climbing advocacy and conservation projects by awarding 100% of the applicants in its second Climbing Preservation Grants cycle of 2007 for trail improvements, clean-up supplies, and Affiliate educational initiatives. Presented three times annually, these grants provide financial assistance for local climber activism and protection of the climbing environment in the United States.

The following grants were awarded this round:

ElyÕs Peak Climbers Parking Lot, Trail & Kiosk, Duluth, MN
A grant was awarded to Access Fund Affiliate, Minnesota Climbers Association, for an access trail, parking lot, and kiosk construction at ElyÕs Peak. A local Duluth crag, ElyÕs Peak, has been a regional climbing destination for over 30 years. The new trail and parking lot will provide great access to the crags and cut the approach time in half. The kiosk will provide information about the natural and cultural history of the area and about minimum impact practices for climbers.

Yosemite Facelift 2007, CA
Access Fund Affiliate, Yosemite Climbers Association was awarded a grant to purchase materials for its fourth annual Yosemite Facelift September 26th-September 30th , 2007. This highly successful cleanup has doubled in size every year and has become the largest Adopt-a-Crag in the country. Last yearÕs cleanup had 1,157 volunteers that gathered over 25,000 pounds of trash. Climbers worked alongside other Park user groups creating friendships and respect outside the climbing community. The National Park Service recognized the event by awarding Ken Yager the prestigious Yosemite Award for his efforts in organizing the Facelift. Ken was also awarded the Access Fund Bebie Leadership Award for his work.

 

Meet Charlie Boas

The Access FundÕs new Associate Programs Director

 

Originally from New England, Charlie grew up exploring the White Mountains of New Hampshire skiing and hiking, and when college came around he headed West. CharlieÕs first rock climbing experience was in 1994 as a freshman attending CU, when his roommates took him into the Eldorado Canyon. After graduating in 1998, CharlieÕs wandering around the West lead him to Crested Butte, Steamboat, Northern California, but always returning to Boulder. He has climbed in an array of destinations from Fontainebleau to Indian Creek to Tankawa Falls, TX.

 

He was most recently the Facility Manager and Head Routesetter of the Boulder Rock Club (where he first learned to belay over a decade ago), is a board member for Action Committee for Eldorado, an Access Fund Affiliate.

 

Charlie heads up the Affiliate and Regional Coordinator Program, the Community Partner Program and Adopt-a-Crag, and the boulderProject for the Access Fund. He can be reached at charlie@accessfund.org or 303-545-6772 x105.

 

 

Write a Gear Review and Support the Access Fund

Outdoor gear guide and Access Fund Corporate Partner Trailspace.com will donate $10 to the Access Fund for each climbing gear review posted on its site by an Access Fund member between now and September 30.

 

Just visit www.trailspace.com/access-fund to submit a user review of your favorite (or least favorite) rope, shoes, harness, cam, biner, ice tool, or other climbing gear. Trailspace will donate $10 to the Access Fund for each review, up to $1,000, and you'll be supporting the Access Fund while helping other climbers choose the right gear.

Visit www.trailspace.com/access-fund today to submit your gear review and for more details.

 

 

Refer-a-Friend

ItÕs Easy: Know a climber whoÕs not a member? Get them to join and receive free stuff. The more people you get to join, the more free stuff you get!

 

Every time your name is entered as a referrer, you are entered into a contest to win a rope.

 

PLUS

 

á      REFER TWO FRIENDS and receive a Nalgene Flask.

á      REFER FOUR FRIENDS and receive a Nalgene Flask and a dri-release wool T-shirt from Outdoor Research.

á      REFER SIX FRIENDS and receive a Nalgene Flask, a dri-release wool T-shirt from Outdoor Research, and a North Face merino wool beanie cap.

 

PLUS

 

The two top referrers will receive a bonus gift package worth over $150.

 

REFER your friends by sending them to this NEW link:

www.accessfund.org/AFfriend 

á      If they become a member, they are also entered into a contest to win a free rope.

á      They must enter your name in the ÒReferred byÓ box on the join form in order for their membership to count towards your total tally.

á      Awards will be sent on a monthly basis as your referrals accumulate.

á      Program will reset January 1.

á      The Access Fund reserves the right to substitute any gift based on availability.

 

 

 

ItÕs in the BagÉor at Least It Should Be

25% off from Access Fund Corporate Partner RESTOP.

 

The Access Fund has been talking for a while about human waste containment systems and encouraging climbers to use these poop bags when in the wilderness. With a successful distribution pilot program in Indian Creek, land managers are taking notice that climbers are proactive about their impacts.

 

The Access Fund maintains that human waste containment bags should be in every climberÕs pack or pad. ThereÕs no reason to dig a scat hole and stink the place up. Poop bags keep our crags clean and land managers happy.

 

It may be difficult to get yourself to actually go out and buy a human waste containment system so hereÕs an incentive to get your crap together: 25% off from Access Fund Corporate Partner RESTOP.

 

www.accessfund.org/secure/store.php YouÕll need your membership number to login to the memberSHOP and then click on the RESTOP logo.

 

 

 

Access Fund—4 Star Rating

The Access Fund has achieved Charity NavigatorÕs (the countryÕs premier charity evaluator) highest rating of 4 stars. Less than a quarter of the countryÕs charity organizations have received this highest rating.

 

This ÒexceptionalÓ designation indicates that the Access Fund outperforms the majority of nonprofits in America with respect to fiscal responsibility. We put your money to work, doing what you want it to do: keep climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment.

 

Members—thanks for your continued support!

 

 

EVENTS

Make any event an Access Fund fundraiser and/or member drive. ItÕs so easy—register your event online and weÕll set you up with everything you need! www.accessfund.org/events/eventreg.php

 

Also, register your crag clean-ups as an Adopt-a-Crag to strengthen our communal efforts. Adopt-a-Crag is the largest climber volunteer effort year after year and land managers notice. Be a part of it! www.accessfund.org/cons/aac.php

 

**A big thanks to these recent Access Fund Fundraisers that went the extra mile bringing in tremendous money and members helping to keep your climbing areas open and conserve your climbing environment!

 

Twice a year the Access Fund staff packs up their dirtbag-mobiles and head to Salt Lake City for the Outdoor Retail Tradeshow. Last weekÕs summer show was hands down the best tradeshow the AF has ever attended. This was due to the huge support of our Corporate Partners and the love and money flowing for the Access Fund.

 

Special thanks to:

 

Outdoor Retailer for donating a booth space front and center in the Climbing Zone.

 

The North Face for once again donating couches for the AF booth. They make us look good even on a budget.

 

Momentum Media Public Relations, the Access FundÕs PR agency, for including the AF and raising funds in their glammed out press event as well as for organizing the Dirtbag Challenges.

 

Rock & Ice for helping with the Dirtbag Challenges where Beaver (the president and founder of Prana) showed Peter Metcalf (president of Black Diamond) how to properly climb up a bouldering wall with a haul stuffed with Old English malt liquor (who knew OE came in cans?), chuck Clif Bars into a Restop Comode across the way (the crap toss), and build a better beer can tower (again OE in a can). In the second round of challenges, AF Athlete Ambassadors Angie Payne firmly defeated Chris Lindner. Rematch next year?

 

La Sportiva for contributing the proceeds from their Beer:30 happy hour to the AF complete with keepsake AF/Sportiva pint glasses.

 

The Reel Rock Tour, Gore-Tex Products, and Skram Media for donating proceeds from the world premier of King Lines starring AF Ambassador Chris Sharma. A packed house had the money flowing.

 

Scarpa and Urban Climber Magazine for organizing and hosting a silent art auction that benefited the Access Fund. Amazing art from Access Fund athletes and partners was auctioned to the highest bidder and itÕs rumored that American Alpine Club president Jim Donini paid $60 for a pair of pink and orange tube socks he bought off an AF staffer (if anyone has a picture of Jim in the tubeÕs please send it to the AF and weÕll feature it in upcoming publications).

 

 

Events Calendar

 

08/25 Mt. Evans, CO. Dude-Where's My Stash? Clean-Up, Meet at Echo Lake Parking Lot at 10:30 am, Amy Carden,

a1moose@comcast.net

 

08/25 Fayetteville, WV. The New River Gorge Adopt-a-Crag hosted by the New River Alliance of Climbers. Elaina Smith, Elaina@newriverclimbing.com

 

09/08 The Obed, Knoxville, TN. 8th Annual Adopt-a-Crag at The Obed hosted by the East Tennessee Climbers Coalition. 9am. Rick Bost, rickbost@aol.com

09/08 Rocky Mountain National Park, CO. Dude-Where's My Stash? Clean Up. Meet at Bear Lake Parking Lot at 10:30 am, Amy Carden, a1moose@comcast.net

09/08 Castlewood Canyon State Park, CO. Castlewood Canyon State Park Adopt-a-Crag host by REI. 8am-1pm, breakfast & lunch provided. Joshua Fox, Jfox@rei.com

 

09/08 Sandrock, AL. The Sandrock Adopt-a-Crag hosted by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition. 9:30am CST. John Connell, jconnell@coosahs.net

 

09/13—09/16 Salt Lake City, UT. HERA Ovarian Cancer Climb4Life www.herafoundation.org

09/15—09/16 Pocatello, Ross Park Climbing Area, ID. Pocatello Pump

www.isu.edu/outdoor/pump.html

 

09/21—09/23 Smith Rock State Park, OR. Smith Rock Detour www.smithrockdetour07.com

10/12—10/14 Red River Gorge, Slade, KY. Petzl Roc Trip presents Rocktoberfest!

www.rrgcc.org

 

 

MEMBER BENEFITS

Get member only discounts on all the new stuff in the Access Fund MemberSHOP! www.accessfund.org/membershop

 

 

New Men's T-shirts

100% Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Those old T-shirts you've been wearing have more perforations than Swiss cheese at City of Rocks. By purchasing our T, you can rebel against corporate dress codes and battle for climbers' rights at the same time. Artwork by Jeremy Collins. Sizes S, M, L, XL. $20 non members/$18 member price NOW IN STOCK!

 

 

New Women's T-shirts

100% Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Designed for a comfortable fit and ideal for steep sport climbs, bold runouts or just hanging out. Artwork by Jeremy Collins. Size S only (M & L currently out of stock). $20 non members/$18 member price

 

Pass It On!

www.accessfund.org/membershop

 

Discounts on RESTOP Waste Bags

Does a bear S#!@t in the woods? Yes, but we should pack ours out. Access Fund members receive 25% off RESTOP bag systems for human waste and other products.

 

Higher Ground Coffee Access Fund Blend Ten Percent of proceeds fund preservation and maintenance of our climbing areas.

 

Did you know that Access Fund members receive free shipping on web orders from Mountain Gear? You must access the Mountain Gear site through the AF MemberSHOP after you login.

 

Buy a CLIF Bar Cool Tag Renewable wind energy credit keeps about 300 lbs of CO2 out of the air and helps the Rosebud Sioux Tribe build a wind farm in South Dakota

 

 

AF Extras

Cruise to the AF website and play ASANA PackWorks' video game Gunther's Big Day www.accessfund.com/extras/game.php  Click through to ASANA's site to purchase the full version. $10 from each purchase made through this link will be donated to the AF. Go Gunther! Thanks ASANA!

 

AF Ambassador Timmy OÕNeil Òtakes care of businessÓ in Indian Creek www.accessfund.org/extras/tic.php

 

Access Fund Ambassador Chris Sharma sending a first ascent in the boulderProject promo spot at www.accessfund.org/extras/promo.php

 

 

Vertical Times 77 is Now Online!

Please check out the August Issue of the Vertical Times at

www.accessfund.org/news/vt.php