Thanks to the support of climbers around the country, seven U.S. climbing areas will soon receive new, modern hardware as part of Access Fund’s annual Anchor Replacement Fund grant program. This year’s grantees span the country and steward a healthy mixture of nationally known crags and important local resources. 

Foster Falls, Tennessee. © Caleb Timmerman.

“When it comes to replacing old and aging fixed hardware, land managers can and should count on the expertise of local climbers,” says Daniel Dunn, Access Fund’s eastern regional access director. “We’re proud to partner with these seven local climbing organizations to support their bolt replacement efforts and to keep these climbing areas open and conserved.”

This year’s grantees include:

Arizona: Granite Dells
Prescott Climbers Coalition was awarded funding for anchor replacement efforts in the Granite Dells of Arizona. Funds from this grant will support the purchase of anchor replacement tools and supplies to supplement hardware generously provided by the American Safe Climbing Association. By emphasizing one-to-one replacement techniques, local climbers will ensure the integrity of this historic and beautiful area for generations to come.

Arkansas: Mount Magazine State Park
Arkansas Parks and Recreation Foundation, in partnership with the Arkansas Climber’s Coalition and Arkansas State Parks, received funding for anchor replacement work at Mount Magazine State Park. Home to the Natural State’s first sport climbs, Mount Magazine is a historical and celebrated climbing area in the region. Funds will be used to upgrade aging fixed anchors with long-lasting glue-ins at Breakfast Wall, Crag Central, the Hallucinogen Wall, and East End.

California: Berkeley Crags
Bay Area Climbers Coalition received funding to support fixed anchor cleanup and replacement at small urban crags such as Indian Rock, Mortar Rock, Cragmont, and Remillard Parks. Many of these small urban crags have served as training grounds for generations of climbers in the Bay area. As usage of these climbing areas has shifted over the years there is a growing interest to remove and clean up old, rusty hardware that is no longer used. Certain crags such as Indian Rock and Mortar Rock have great significance to the local Lisjan (Ohlone) indigenous community and these anchor cleanup efforts are tangible ways the climbing community can support these groups, and build partnerships for the future.

Colorado: Garden of the Gods and Red Rock Open Space
Pikes Peak Climbers Alliance received funding to support ongoing fixed anchor replacement efforts at Garden of the Gods and Red Rock Open Space. These crags–known for their soft, red sandstone–are in need of hardware upgrades appropriate for the local rock that are able to accommodate growing numbers of visitors. The scope of work for this project will involve upgrading all fixed anchors at Ripple Wall and the east face of Kindergarten Rock to stainless steel glue-ins.

Michigan: Silver Mountain
Upper Peninsula Climbers Coalition received funding to install lowering hardware on popular routes at Silver Mountain. Considered the premier crag of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, Silver Mountain is home to many quality sport routes that draw local and visiting climbers alike. The project is part of a larger effort to install sustainable lowering hardware on the majority of routes on the cliff. In addition to fixed anchor upgrades, Access Fund’s Conservation Team will also visit Silver Mountain this November to work on trail improvements.

Ohio: Kiedaisch Point Park

Ohio Climbers Coalition received funding to support fixed anchor upgrades at Kiedaisch Point Park. As the only known climbing area in east central Ohio, Kiedaisch Point Park is a well-loved gem for Midwestern climbers accustomed to longer climbing road trips. The project will upgrade all existing anchors to modern glue-ins that will serve local climbers for generations to come.

South Dakota: Mount Rushmore and Custer State Park

Black Hills Climbers Coalition received funding to support ongoing anchor replacement efforts in South Dakota’s Black Hills. Local climbers will upgrade outdated anchors in classic venues such as the Needles and also replace worn lowering hardware in popular zones such as Spearfish Canyon and Mount Rushmore.