Access Fund, in partnership with the American Alpine Club (AAC), is pleased to award $10,000 in Anchor Replacement Fund grants to six local climbing organizations. These funds will help address the critical issue of aging fixed anchors at high-traffic areas and destination crags across the nation.
“Fixed anchors are a standard part of every climber’s safety system, and our community relies on the unheralded work of dedicated anchor replacement volunteers to safely ascend and descend climbs,” says Access Fund Southeast Regional Manager Daniel Dunn. “Through partnerships and grants with local climbing organizations, Access Fund is able to do our part to assist local climbers replace aging and substandard bolts placed during the American sport climbing revolution of the 80’s and 90’s.”
Boulder Canyon, Colorado. Ancestral lands of the Cheyenne, Arapaho, and Ute. © Boulder Climbing Community.
This is Access Fund’s ninth consecutive year awarding grants for anchor replacement. Since 2015 the program has funded the replacement of nearly 13,000 bolts and distributed $105,000 in Anchor Replacement Fund grants. This year’s winning projects are:
1. Bay Area Climbers Coalition: Castle Rock State Park
The Bay Area Climbers Coalition received funding to update fixed anchors at the ever-popular Castle Rock State Park. The scope of work includes Castle Rock proper, Pyramid Rock, Platypus Rock, Boy Scout Rock, and others. All old fixed anchors will be replaced with modern glue ins.
2. High Desert Climbers Alliance: Smith Rock State Park
The High Desert Climbers Alliance (HDCA) received funding to support their ongoing anchor replacement work at Smith Rock State Park. HDCA continues to refine and improve their anchor replacement program at Smith Rock, which has replaced over 1,000 bolts in the previous three years. Funds from this application will provide necessary hardware, supplies, and tools for the 2023 season—including glue-in bolts and mussy hooks, provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA).
3. Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative: Red River Gorge
The Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative (RRG FGI) requested funding to support their ongoing work in the Red. The RRG FGI has a successful, decade-long track record of replacing aging, substandard hardware in the Red. Funds from this grant will primarily be used during the annual “Rebolt the Red” event. Along with the recently launched Red River Gorge Conservation Initiative, this represents a significant investment at one of the country’s most popular climbing areas.
4. Boulder Climbing Community: Front Range, Colorado
The Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) received funding to support their Anchor Replacement Program efforts in 2024, which will primarily focus on Boulder Canyon and its popular, roadside crags. BCC plans to replace 75% of all fixed anchors in the canyon—estimated at 8,000 individual bolts—by 2027. This project also received critical ASCA support for hardware.
5. New Mexico Climbers Resource and Advocacy Group: Mentmore Crag
The New Mexico Climbers Resource and Advocacy Group (NM CRAG) received funding to support work at the Mentmore climbing area near Gallup, NM. The project focuses on providing sustainable top anchors for established routes. NM CRAG’s work is also supported through in-kind donation from the City of Gallup.
6. Central Wyoming Climbers’ Alliance: Lander Area, WY
The Central Wyoming Climbers’ Alliance (CWCA) received funding to support their Bolt and Anchor Replacement Program in the Lander area. Funding will pay for new rope access kits that will be used by trained volunteers at rebolting events. These kits help increase safety for volunteers, provide additional comfort for long events, and allow a wider range of individuals to participate in rebolting events. This project was also supported by the ASCA.
The American Alpine Club is a sponsor of the Anchor Replacement Fund program.