Arguably the most iconic climbing area on the planet, Yosemite National Park is a living laboratory in the never-ending work to conserve the environment and protect sustainable climbing access. The park recognizes the need to preserve the vertical environment and its unique climbing experiences, and it invests in working with climbers to make that happen.
Earlier this year, the park finalized a plan to require Wilderness climbing permits for overnight big wall climbs. Most of the park’s iconic big walls are in Wilderness areas, including El Capitan, Half Dome, and Washington Column. Access Fund, along with our partners at the American Alpine Club and Yosemite Climbing Association, collaborated directly with park managers, urging them to manage the new program in a way that worked for climbers.
Park managers addressed the climbing community’s concerns, and the program is better because of it—maximizing flexibility for big-wall climbers, just as we requested. Permits are free and do not require a reservation. More specifically:
Permits are available by self-registration (24 hours per day/7 days a week) in front of the Climbing Management Office located just west of the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center (in the same building as the Yosemite Museum).
Climbing rangers will frequently be available at the Climbing Management Office for more in-depth big-wall, Leave No Trace, and climbing technique advice; safety tips; and route-condition information. Office hours and program times will be posted on the self-registration board.
Yosemite’s goals for the permit system are to help climbing rangers better understand use patterns on big walls, increase compliance with existing regulations (e.g., proper disposal of waste), and minimize impacts to Wilderness character through improved education. We believe this program will help them meet those goals.
“Park managers listened to the climbing community’s concerns, and the program is better because of it.”
Recreating in Wilderness areas is a privilege that comes with certain rights and responsibilities. As climbers, we must all work together to protect these unique environments. Access Fund will continue to work with the National Park Service to increase cooperation and mitigate human-waste issues, trash, abandoned fixed lines and gear, and overcrowding, among other issues.
Access Fund is committed to working with Yosemite National Park to ensure climbers can access its iconic big walls, while also protecting Wilderness character and ensuring existing rules are observed. Together, we can protect these world-class climbing resources for generations to come.