Some of our most iconic climbing areas are located on private land. And while climbers may gaze at these spots in wonder, they could have ended up as pedestals for trophy homes instead of beloved crags without intentional community action.

Every day, cash-ready developers swoop in and gobble up more open spaces to fuel the endless demand for new construction. So when a privately owned climbing area goes up for sale, we must act quickly to ensure the landscape is not lost forever. Access Fund provides local climbing organizations loans, grants, and acquisition expertise to swiftly purchase threatened climbing areas when they go up for sale. Buying a threatened climbing area doesn’t just protect climbing access—it protects the natural habitat of native plants and animals, promotes climate resiliency, and gives climbers the opportunity to safeguard the land against future environmental threats.

Since 1990, Access Fund has completed or provided support for nearly 100 acquisitions through loans and grants—saving big-name climbing areas and backyard boulder fields alike. We rounded up nine of the sport climbing areas we protected that represent more than 2,600 acres of protected land and nearly 4,000 routes. How many of these famous crags have you visited?

1. Field of Dreams - Index, Washington (2023)

As part of the larger Lower Lump and Inner Walls acquisition in 2023, Access Fund and the Washington Climbers Coalition also saved the Field of Dreams area, which features more than a dozen fully bolted sport climbs—including a few multipitch routes. And while visiting climbers might still argue whether Index grades are a bit stiff or totally sandbagged, Field of Dreams is filled with four-star bolted 5.10 lines that are just plain fun.

Acres Protected: 20

Routes Saved: 18 at Field of Dreams, 46 total

Iconic Route: Summer Begins (5.10b, two pitches)

2. Woodcock Cove - Dunlap, Tennessee (2021)

Woodcock Cove, Tennessee. © Caleb Timmerman.

Tower climbing in the Southeast? Thanks to Access Fund and the Southeastern Climbers Coalition, you can top out a rare 75-foot freestanding sandstone tower at Woodcock Cove. In a 2021 acquisition, the groups teamed up for an acquisition and land swap that preserved 69 acres of undeveloped land and approximately 60 existing routes, with room for 100-150 more. The remote property includes a mile of sandstone cliff line, from 30-90 feet tall, forest land, streams, important wildlife habitat, and outstanding scenic views. The climbing is on high-quality orange and tan sandstone, reminiscent of the New River Gorge.

Acres Protected: 69

Routes Saved: 106

Iconic Route: Half Baked (5.11b)

3. Medicine Wall - San Antonio, Texas (2018)

There’s a lot of rock in Texas, but much of it is on private land. So when a 2015 climbing accident prompted the landowners at San Antonio’s only crag to strip all of the hardware from the wall and strictly enforce trespassing laws, local climbers lost a beloved climbing resource. Enter Access Fund and the Texas Climbers Coalition.

The large development company that owned the property recognized the recreational and conservation value of the property and had an interest in protecting it. After some back and forth with the city of San Antonio, the landowner connected with TCC to discuss the cliff’s future. Today, Med Wall is officially owned by TCC with a conservation easement held by Access Fund—protecting this important urban crag in perpetuity.

Acres Protected: 1

Routes Saved: 40

Iconic Route: Bow Legged (5.11b)

4. Rumney, New Hampshire (2017 and 1994)

Widely recognized as New England’s premier crag, Rumney has something for everyone, from 5.3 to 5.15a. And while the area is now managed by the U.S. Forest Service, Access Fund and the Rumney Climbers Association teamed up at two critical moments to save privately owned inholdings from selling to buyers who could have shut climbing down. These two big purchases saved more than 1,000 routes in areas like Northwest Territories, Buffalo Pit, Northwest Passage, The Prudential, The Asylum, and the western portion of the Black Jack Boulders.

Acres Protected: 122

Routes Saved: 1,080

Iconic Route: B-B-Buttress (5.9)

5. South Cumberland State Park - Marion County, Tennessee (2016 and 2000)

Denny Cove, Tennessee. © Nathalie Dupré.

Tennessee’s most famous crags follow the topography of the Cumberland Plateau, and decades of climbers have played an important role in opening them to the public. Two of these areas—Denny Cove and Foster Falls—were saved thanks to a coalition including Access Fund, the Southeastern Climbers Coalition, Friends of South Cumberland, The Conservation Fund, Land Trust for Tennessee, the State of Tennessee, and more. Now part of South Cumberland State Park, climbers ultimately protected hundreds of acres of land and routes and the historic Fiery Gizzard Trail.

Acres Protected: 726

Routes Saved: 211

Iconic Route: Something’s Always Wrong (5.10d)

6. The Homestead - Winkelman, Arizona (2015)

America’s best tufa climbing is at The Homestead near Winkelman, Arizona, but climbers almost lost access to the area forever when a bank foreclosed on the property. With a narrow window of opportunity, Access Fund purchased the land, negotiated legal access, and built critical road and parking infrastructure to benefit all user groups—including climbers. By taking action quickly, we saved more than 250 sport climbs on 12 limestone walls.

Acres Protected: 360

Routes Saved: 250

Iconic Route: Tufa Yard Dash (5.11c)

7. Jailhouse Rock - Jamestown, California (2010)

Jailhouse Rock, California. © Joe Sambataro.

When a fast-approaching subdivision was likely to block future access to Jailhouse, Access Fund teamed up with the local climbing community to secure permanent access to this overhanging crag. Jailhouse is now permanently protected for its recreation and natural resources. Bring your kneebarring skills to tackle this link-up filled crag, which is stacked with 5.12-5.14 routes—and don’t forget to check the access beta on our site before you go.

Acres Protected: 75

Routes Saved: 109

Iconic Route: Alcatraz (5.13b)

8. Shelf Road - Cañon City, Colorado (1999)

Shelf Road, Colorado. © Brittany Hamilton.

Colorado climbers flock to Shelf Road each winter to enjoy sun-filled days on miles of undulating limestone cliffs. And while the area is owned by the Bureau of Land Management today, that wasn’t always the case. In 1999, Access Fund purchased more than 100 acres of privately owned land at Shelf Road to officially open Cactus Cliff, Spiney Ridge, part of the Gym, the Vault, Gem Wall, and the Cash Wall.

Acres Protected: 115

Routes Saved: 450

Iconic Route: Lats Don’t Have Feelings (5.11d)

9. The Red River Gorge - Beattyville, Kentucky (2017, 2016, 2013, 2010, 2006, 2003)

Red River Gorge, Kentucky. © Tiffany Nardico.

The Red River Gorge that we know and love would not exist without robust acquisitions programs and liability protections for private landowners. Access Fund, the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition, and local climbers have spent decades buying and conserving some of the most well-known crags in the gorge, including Pendergrass Murray, Miller Fork, and Bald Rock Recreational Preserves.

Acres Protected: 1,161

Routes Saved: 1,554

Iconic Route: Breakfast Burrito (5.10d)

Nine Iconic Sport Crags Purchased and Protected by Climbers