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Climb Like a Local: Reimer's Ranch

Reimer’s Ranch offers year-round limestone pocket-pulling and refreshing swimming holes, and it’s only 30 miles from Austin, where you’ll find an eclectic live music scene and some of the best BBQ in Texas. Could it get any better?

Rock climbing at Reimer's Ranch outside Austin, Texas
Photo courtesy of © Merrick Ales | Reimer's Ranch, TX

TOP TEN CLASSIC CLIMBS AT REIMER'S RANCH

  1. Eight Flake, 5.8
  2. My Name is Mud, 5.9
  3. Water Ballet, 5.10
  4. Dead Cats, 5.10
  5. Bolt Talk, 5.10
  6. Crankenstein, 5.11
  7. Liposuction, 5.12
  8. Jade, 5.12
  9. Rain Dance, 5.12
  10. Yertle the Turtle, 5.12

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REIMER'S RANCH ATMOSPHERE: If you aren’t making friends, you aren’t doing it right. Austin climbers are friendly and welcoming—they’ll often let you take a spin on their rope and invite you to meet up for tacos or barbeque at the end of the day.

AVOID THE CROWDS AT REIMER'S RANCH: Popular crags can get crowded on the weekends. If Dead Cats wall is crowded, walk just a little farther to Arbor wall, it's better and sees way less people. If prototype is crowded, climb at adjacent Dr. Suess and Shortcake walls. And if Sex Cave is crowded, there are lots of good routes in Sex Canyon.

LOCAL PET PEEVE: Sketchy safety practices! If you aren't an experienced climber, ask for help.

REIMER'S RANCH RISKS!: Rangers are serious about enforcing leash regulations, so keep your dogs on a leash. Also, the nearby river is a great way to cool off and refresh when climbing in the Texas heat. But after a hard rain, runoff from cattle poo on nearby ranches can raise bacteria levels in the river. Never a bad idea to put disinfectant drops in your ears after a swim, just to be on the safe side.

WHO HAS YOUR BACK AT REIMER'S RANCH? Texas Climbers Coalition represents climbers in the Austin area.

REIMER'S RANCH PRO TIP: Reimer’s Ranch has every kind of route you can imagine, from 5.7 to 5.14, from slabs to roofs. The boulderer and sport climber alike will find quality projects. The grades can be stiff, and onsighting can be a challenge because the grey and white rock camouflages chalk and shoe rubber. Also, beware of wet holds! When it rains, certain routes can stay wet for days, maybe even weeks. ~Brian Antheunisse, local pro

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