Chris Archer’s contributions to Access Fund span decades, programs, and operations alike. He was a board member from 1992 to 2004 and has served as the organization’s general counsel since 2004.
In addition to providing hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of free legal services to the Access Fund over the past 20 years, Archer has made numerous contributions to the climbing community in Boulder and throughout Colorado over the past 30 years. His contributions include:
Founded the Action Committee for Eldorado (ACE) in 1992, serving as Access Fund’s representative on the ACE board for 20 years (during which time ACE raised over $190,000 for Eldorado’s trails, fixed hardware, and other climber resources).
Designed the country’s first fixed hardware review process (for Eldorado Canyon State Park), which has been used as a template in other climbing areas.
Negotiated Access Fund’s acquisition of North Table Mountain in Golden from landowner Mayford Peery.
Negotiated and obtained permission from the landowner to open the Ouray Ice Park.
Negotiated the opening of Telluride’s Bridal Veil Falls to ice climbing after a decades-long closure.
After 30 years of Access Fund service, Archer continues to crank hard in Boulder—both on the rock and by donating his time to Access Fund and other nonprofits.
Five Questions for Chris Archer
Chris Archer
How long have you worked with Access Fund, and what do you do as general counsel?
I became Access Fund’s first general counsel in 2004 after serving on the board for 12 years. As general counsel, I advise Access Fund on a myriad of legal issues that arise in the day-to-day operations of the organization, including nonprofit and corporate issues, contract review and negotiation, and intellectual property protection.
You are an active member of the climbing advocacy community in Boulder, Colorado, and have been for a long time. Tell us about some of your favorite access accomplishments.
Two projects that I was fortunate enough to be involved in and that made a huge difference in Front Range climbing access were the ability to develop new routes in Eldorado Canyon and Access Fund’s acquisition of North Table Mountain. Although I don’t ice climb anymore, I am very proud of my role in the creation of the Ouray Ice Park and opening Bridalveil Falls after it had been closed for many years.
How has climbing advocacy changed over the years you’ve been involved?
Climbing advocacy has grown exponentially, become much more organized, and is now widely supported by climbers and the outdoor industry. When Access Fund was incorporated in 1991, there were no other national organizations protecting and advocating for climbing access. Many climbing areas were facing restrictions as climbs requiring fixed hardware became more popular. There was very little funding available early on and for the first few years, Access Fund struggled to even make payroll. At a local level, there were few—if any—local climbing organizations in 1992 when the Action Committee for Eldorado was formed.
Today, Access Fund is the preeminent climbing nonprofit advocating for climbers and has been amazingly successful in fulfilling its original mission to “Keep Climbing Areas Open.” There are dozens of areas throughout the country where climbing and fixed protection are permitted as a result of Access Fund’s efforts. The outdoor industry and climbers have overwhelmingly supported Access Fund both financially and with volunteer time. There are now hundreds of local climbing organizations with a wide range of missions, from the conservation and acquisition of specific climbing areas to inclusive and adaptive climbing opportunities. It’s been super inspiring to witness and to play a small part in that growth.
What advice would you give to other attorneys who want to donate their skills to the climbing advocacy movement?
Please contact us and volunteer! Access Fund’s legal needs expand annually, as do those of local climbing organizations. Even if we do not have a current need for your specific legal skills, we would like to add you to a list of attorneys with various legal specialties throughout the United States who are willing to volunteer their time. That way, when a climbing-related legal issue arises that is either in your area of specialty or affects a climbing area near you, we have attorneys who can help.
Who are some other climbing advocates whose work is really inspiring you right now?
One of the unsung heroes of the Boulder climbing community who made a huge difference in opening up the Flatirons to new route development was Dave Turner. When Boulder Mountain Parks (BMP) banned fixed anchors, most climbers flocked to support Eldorado Canyon, which allowed fixed anchors subject to ACE’s fixed hardware review system. Dave persevered and continued to develop relationships within BMP, now called Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP). After 20 years, his dedication and those relationships paid off, and the Flatirons were reopened to new routes requiring fixed hardware. Dave unfortunately passed away this January in a skiing accident doing what he loved.
Other advocates who enrich our local community with their work are Greg German, for his creativity and ingenuity in designing devices to replace fixed hardware in their original positions, and Rick Hatfield, an OSMP climbing ranger who worked with Dave and others to reopen the Flatirons.
Outside of our local Front Range community, I have been really impressed by Memphis Rox, for its philosophy and its awesome creation of and support for a vibrant climbing community in Memphis.
Finally, a big thanks to Tommy Caldwell and Lynn Hill, who have given—and continue to give—so much of their time as ambassadors advocating for the climbing community.
What do you think is the most important climbing advocacy issue right now?
Hands down the most important issue right now is Access Fund’s work on the Protecting America’s Rock Climbing Act (PARC). Preserving climbing access is a continuous and ongoing process. The current proposal by the National Park Service to ban fixed anchors in the Wilderness in Colorado and California is the most serious current threat.
Fixed anchors have been a standard part of climbing for close to a century. Their use in the Wilderness is almost as long. The history of climbers’ stewardship and care of the Wilderness and climbing opportunities there is well-established and decades-long. The PARC Act would not change any of that. It would merely confirm that fixed anchor use is appropriate and necessary for climbing and bring much-needed consistency to federal agencies that manage climbing resources. The ill-advised NPS proposal is an unnecessary solution in search of a nonexistent problem.