With Access Fund’s support, Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition (WMCC) recently secured permanent conservation protection for Farley Ledges and Rose Ledge. The victory is another reminder that when climbing access is threatened, local climbing organizations (LCOs) are often the first and best line of defense.

“Farley and Rose Ledges are some of the most popular rock climbing locations in Massachusetts,” says Andy Neuman, WMCC president. They feature gneiss cliffs that offer both trad and sport climbing, plus a wealth of boulders with dozens of high-quality lines for climbers to explore.

The ledges are located on a combination of land leased by FirstLight Power—a local energy provider—and other private landowners. This patchwork of ownership and informal agreements left climbing access in limbo, at risk of disappearing at the whim of energy company officials. “Handshake agreements and informal access can be an important starting point, but long-term, permanent protection is the gold standard,” says Zachary Lesch-Huie, Access Fund vice president of programs & acquisitions. “One of the key ways Access Fund supports local climbers is finding ways to turn those handshakes into signatures on formal agreements.”

WMCC, with the help of Access Fund and in partnership with hikers, kayakers, and other outdoor enthusiasts, reached an agreement with FirstLight Power to officially recognize climbing as a recreational activity at Farley Ledges and Rose Ledge. “Access Fund was always there for us with advice from a national perspective and their library of resources for LCOs,” says Pamela Matsuda-Dunn, WMCC secretary. “WMCC was on the front line, but we always knew Access Fund had our back.”

FirstLight Power filed the recreation settlement agreement on June 13, 2023. “Though rock climbing was informally allowed by FirstLight,” says Neuman, “this Recreation Settlement Agreement permanently secures the right to climb in these areas for rock climbers.”

“The successful outcome of this multiyear effort exemplifies how collaboration between Access Fund and engaged local advocates can lead to big wins for local climbers,” says Lesch-Huie.

Good things happen when climbers come together for a common cause. That’s why Access Fund supports local climbing organizations, and why you should, too. Find your LCO and get involved today.