Meet Jose Rodriguez, Access Fund’s Director of Finance & Operations—better known to all as our Chief Stoke Officer. For Jose, climbing on the weekends isn’t a question of if, but where. Recently, he checked off a huge life achievement in Yosemite, and the undeniable stoke he brought back with him was infectious. His journey to get there, and the passion he exuded upon returning, lifted our spirits—we hope it does the same for the climbing community. Read his perspective below.

I’ve been climbing for seven years, and in that time, nothing has captured me more. Those who know me, know I go all in on something once I’m hooked. Climbing was no exception. It didn’t take long for my goals around climbing to grow. After a few years in the sport—all the training, both in the gym and outside—I realized it’s not the years, it’s the mileage; I need to keep climbing. That became my mantra as I set my sights on one thing: big walls. And when it comes to big walls, there’s only one mecca—Yosemite.

The Road to El Cap

*Theo and Jose, on top of DAFF Dome, Tuolumne Meadows* © Jose Rodriguez.

My first trip to Yosemite a couple of years ago was a humbling experience. The goal was Washington Column, but halfway up, we core-shot our rope. We tried to push on the next day, but mentally, we weren’t there, and we ended up bailing. The lesson? Yosemite doesn’t give anything for free.

So, I spent the next two years training—climbing bigger objectives, learning aid techniques, improving efficiency, and dialing in my systems. I climbed The Diamond in RMNP, put in long days in Eldorado Canyon, and continued to add to my climbing mileage—everything was building toward a chance to redeem myself in Yosemite. But this time, the objective was bigger. The goal wasn’t just to climb Washington Column; I was adding The Nose on El Capitan to the ante.

Nine months out, I locked in a partner and started training harder than ever—working on trad, aid, dialing transitions, and every little efficiency possible. But two months before the trip, I pulled an A2 pulley in Clear Creek during a night bouldering sesh—right before the trip of a lifetime. Initially I went into a dark place, not wanting to accept the reality of what this injury meant. But after consulting two PTs, trying every recovery trick in the book, the progress I was making gave me hope this could still happen. Somehow, I bounced back just in time and the dream was still alive. It was go time!

The Warm Up

Nine months of training and a twenty hour drive later, we pulled into the Valley. We couldn’t wait to climb, wanting to touch rock immediately, we walked straight into Camp 4 with our crash pads. Going for the classics like Midnight Lighting, touching the granite and being back in the place of legends was electric.

The first few days were all about getting used to the rock. We started at Cookie Cliff and Church Bowl—doing single pitches to get our feet under us. As many are fortunate to know, Yosemite climbing is different. You’re trusting friction, smearing, and learning what grades you can free and what needs to be aided. Once we had a feel for it, we stepped it up.

Hitting Central Pillar of Frenzy on Middle Cathedral Rock, five perfect pitches of crack climbing all while El Cap was staring us down. Every hand jam, every chimney move, every placement fueled the fire. Even a couple of rainy days didn’t stop us. We ran up Royal Arches in the afternoon after a damp morning, simul-climbing all 15 pitches, rapping in the dark, and refining our efficiency. Every climb was a step closer to the big one.

*Theo on pitch 5 of Central Pillar of Frenzy, Middle Cathedral Rock* © Jose Rodriguez.

*Jose and Theo on Royal Arches route* © Theodor Schultz.

Redemption on Washington Column

Before we could set foot on El Cap, there was the unfinished business of Washington Column, the route that shut me down exactly two years ago. This time, I was ready. We freed the first few pitches, made it to Dinner Ledge, and fixed the next two pitches that night. Waking up the next morning, I was fired up—this time I was making it to the summit. And, of course, Yosemite wasn’t done teaching me lessons. On a thin aid pitch higher on the route with micro placements— I slammed in a .1 cam, tested it, and it blew. Then another piece of pro popped. And another. I took a 30-foot whipper before the rope finally caught me. Despite bloody hands, I was relatively unscathed, and the stoke was still high. I taped up and kept climbing. This time, we topped out. Redemption tasted sweet.

*Theo starting up Kor’s Roof on the Washington Column, with Half Dome looming* © Jose Rodriguez.

The Nose Goes

After spending just over a week in Yosemite, testing our skills and mentally preparing, we were ready. It was time for the Big Stone itself.

*Big wall “stars” on El Capitan* © Theodor Schultz.

Day 0: We hiked in all our gear, climbed the first six pitches, fixed ropes down from Sickle Ledge, rapped down, ate pizza, drank a beer to toast what was to come, and spent one more night on the ground before entering the vertical world.

Day 1: We started at 2 AM. Noticing headlamps high up the wall, it was a foreshadowing moment that we’d soon be those bright big wall “stars”. We jugged up to our high point, dropped our third rope and we were officially on the wall. There was no going back now. Taking it a pitch at a time, by nightfall we made it to El Cap Tower—exhausted but buzzing with energy. The highlight from the day funny enough was coming across a tiny frog, yep, there are frogs on El Cap.

Day 2: The second day was full of all the classics like the Texas Flake (70 feet of chimney climbing with one bolt that you don’t clip if you want to be kind to your follower), the Boot Flake (tight hands, overhung, and 2,000 feet up the wall), and then the King Swing. This is the iconic 80-foot run sideways, as you’re trying to grab an edge and pull over to the next crack system. It felt like the crux of the whole climb. If you miss, you smack the wall hard. Who knew you needed to incorporate sprints into the training program….It took us a while, but we finally got it. Climbing into the night, we made it to just below the Great Roof and set up our portaledge.

Day 3: Waking up under the Great Roof was unreal. The exposure was heart pounding and the views were incredible. We started our day aid climbing through the roof, getting closer and closer to the summit. We pushed late into the night again, passing the Pancake Flake and the Glowering Spot, and made it to Camp 6. At this point, we had a choice to make. We could go for the crux Changing Corners pitch that night and guarantee we summit the next day, or potentially spend another two days on the wall. Of course, we went for it! I started the lead at 10 PM, climbed for another two hours and felt absolutely pushed to the limit at the end but stoked that tomorrow would be our summit window.

*Theo enjoying the exposure 3,000 feet off the ground, one pitch from the top* © Jose Rodriguez.

Day 4: There were only five pitches to the summit. Today was the day. We started off climbing smooth and made it to the Wild Stance—the highest true stance on the route with a perfect view down The Nose. Belaying my partner from there, another party appeared. Alex Honnold comes casually cruising up, having started from the base at 7:30 AM that morning, and here we were on day four. He stopped and chatted for a bit, waiting for his partner to get further ahead on the pitch as they simul-climbed passed us. We connected about Access Fund, and wished each other luck on the route. Then he was gone as quick as he appeared. Now it was our turn for the final push to the summit. After four days on the wall and five days of the most effort we have ever given anything, we stood on the top of El Capitan. It was pure joy. Moved to tears, and in a bit of disbelief we made it, we cracked open a small flask we brought in case this dream became reality. The Nose goes!

*Jose and Alex Honnold hanging out at the Wild Stance* © Jose Rodriguez.

With only a few hours of daylight left, we opted to do the walk off descent, a brutal 9 miles with our 80 lb haul bags. Eventually, we made it back to the Valley, sat under El Cap, and let what we just accomplished sink in.

*Jose and Theo on the summit of El Cap as the sun sets* © Jose Rodriguez.

Reflection

Four months later, I’m still basking in the achievement. When the EXPLORE Act passed Congress, ensuring that climbing in wilderness would be protected, I had a profound moment of gratitude. Having the opportunity to experience places like being 3,000 feet up El Cap in Yosemite Valley, that’s why I do what I do at Access Fund. While I may be behind the scenes in finance, climbing has given me so much, and working to help protect these places in return is such a gift.

My goals around climbing never stop, but the ultimate goal is to keep climbing accessible for future generations so that someone else has the opportunity to stand on top of El Cap and feel the same overwhelming joy.

Climb on,